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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

3
Rodinná hrobka
From the W directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Rodinná hrobka
To the right of the original ascent, straight up the wall into the gully. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Rodinná hrobka
Middle of the SE wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Rodinná hrobka
Along the rounded southern edge over a large hole into the ledge to the ring. Right up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2
Rodinná hrobka
Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Rodinná hrobka
NE wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Malloryho věže
From the plateau side, crack and chimney to the pillar. Wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
9+
Polská věž
Along the valley arête via two rings to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
3
Křemeňáci
Via the plateau chimney to the pillar and right up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7/7+
Věž Svena Hedina
Via the NW ridge - start in the corner directly on the ridge (there's an arrow) - over 2… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8/8+
Kulagangri
Via the West Ridge (5 rings) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
8+/9-
Kulagangri
Via the North Ridge over 5 rings to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5+
Kulagangri
Via the NW face and crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +3
8+/9-
Kangdu
Via the West Ridge (3 rings) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6-
Kangdu
Three meters left of the route "Game of Fate", via a crack over the roof and further via… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +3
6
Kangdu
From the niche on the NE side of the tower, via a crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +3
9/9+
Dvorská
Overhang over the hourglasses and two rings to the hourglasses, then right to the ring of… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
8-/8
Dvorská
Right of Sicilian Defense, up the wall over 5 rings to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
10-/10
Dvorská
Crack from the south side of the tower to the 1st Q, higher to the ring of route… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
6-
Pasang Dava Láma
Through the crack to the left of the NE chimney (ring) to the fore-summit and via the … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
4
Pasang Dava Láma
Via the NW chimney into the widening, up the wall to the right and along the edge to the… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
8+/9-
Mišma
Along the edge of the chimney over three rings to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8-/8
Tave Čhe
Directly up the middle of the Southeast wall - three fixed slings (=via Three-Hour Route)… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
4+
Tibet
As the SE chimney to Baruntse, right and via stemming to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
7+/8-
Tibet
Through a crack in the middle of the V-wall (2 rings) to the balcony. Traverse left into… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
8-/8
Tibet
Through the crack to the left of the lower edge to the ring, up the wall along the edge … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5+
Tibet
Via the chimney between Baruntse and Tibet to the bolt. Right along the edge to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6+/7-
Baruntce
To the left of the right valley edge, up the wall (2 bolts) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6
Baruntce
To the right of the South edge, via a crack to the 2nd bolt of the Matine route and via… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
6
Baruntce
To the left of Matine, via a crack along the edge (bolt) to the end at the 2nd bolt, then… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3

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