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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

5
Gašerbrum
Start on the south side, to the right via a crack (hourglass) below the summit and then a… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
6-
Čhogolisa
From the NE via a crack (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
4
Gašerbrum
From the SE, through the chimney into the inner space and via the chimney to the pillars.… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
6-
Čhogolisa
SW crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +2
2
Čhogolisa
From the highest point of the plateau terrain via a small chimney and then steps to the… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
9/9+
Čhogolisa
Along the left valley edge and later directly up it (7 Q) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
8-/8
Čhogolisa
In the middle of the NW face via 4 rings to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5
Skřítek Racochejl
To the right of c. Pohádky z mechu (Fairy Tales from Moss) via the face n. v. (likely … Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Vajgl
Up the face along the northern edge (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
8-/8
Kailaš
Up the valley wall (3 rings) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
9/9+
Poupě
In the west wall briefly via a crack and right along the wall to the ring. From there… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Poupě
Rock Climbing Textile belay
8+/9-
Poupě
Along the west edge over 4 rings to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
9+
Rododendron
Via the crack to the left edge and then over three rings to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Svišt
Through the chimney to the small pillar at the west edge of the tower. Over a step and up… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Svišt
SE crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route
2
Svišt
Through the west chimney, over a step and up the wall along the north edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7/7+
Věž Herberta Tichého
SE edge (4 rings) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
7+/8-
Věž Herberta Tichého
SW wall 2 rings, wall to a ledge and traverse right to the edge, then up to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
8-/8
Hidden peak
To the right of the prominent corner with a crack, along the western edge (5 rings) to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Hidden peak
Up the chimney of the Kavčí komín route about 7m to the clock. Left along the wall (3… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Manaslu
To the right of the Old Route, via the chimney (ring) and crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
5+
Manaslu
From the valley side, via the chimney and cracks over the overhang to the clock. Via the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
9/9+
Manaslu
In the NE wall, via the chimney to the fore-rock and along the edge (closest to Mustagh… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6-
Manaslu
Via the SE corner crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
4-
Manaslu
Through the plateau chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
5
Maharadža
In the left part of the NW wall, through the chimney to the plateau. Traverse from the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Maharadža
Overhang from Palácový pes (Palace Dog) n.v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Maharadža
By the old route to the plateau. Traverse left in the chimney to the western edge and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8+/9-
Maharadža
Along the crack to the 1st ring, right up the groove and wall over 3 rings to the clock… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1

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