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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6
Láma
Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Láma
In the NE face via the small chimney (ring), to the right up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Jeti
From the plateau side through the middle of the block (1st ring) to the fore-rock, up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
7/7+
Jeti
By Kokša's path to the plateau. Diagonally right up the wall (2 rings) to the 2nd ring of… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6-
Jeti
By Kokša's path to the 1st ring. Diagonally right up the wall to the ledge. Traverse… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
7-/7
Jeti
From NE via crack to the 1st ring. Corner crack to the 2nd ring. Aid climbing left to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
6
Jeti
From the upper side via a crack or SE corner to the platform. Up the wall left to the 1st… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
4
Nepálská
Upper wall and crack to the detached block. Up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7/7+
Zelený Raoul
West wall, crack to the first ring, then up the wall over the second ring to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
9+
Veverka
Via the valley bear over four rings to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
9/9+
Zelený Raoul
Up the wall over three rings to the summit. Approach from the left. (opposite Sven Hedin… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
8+/9-
Stalin
Up the wall over 4 rings to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
4
Pytlák
Right part of the upper wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
5
Pytlák
Along the crack at the left valley edge, higher up the wall (slings) directly to the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
4
Pytlák
Along the left part of the upper wall to the ledge, along it to the right and through the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
7-/7
Pytlák
From the east into the NE wall and along it (2 rings) to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
8/8+
Namche Bazar
Through the SE wall, a small crack over 2 rings to the left into the falcon-like part … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7+/8-
Krysák
At the left edge of the valley wall to the 1st ring, right to the 2nd ring, through the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
9/9+
Krysák
Along the right valley edge over four rings to the summit. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
9/9+
Drak
Traverse along the ledge to the right to the edge and along it (4 rings) to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8-/8
Cestovní kancelář
Freely to the fore-rock and up the wall (3 rings) to the summit. To the right of Šifra. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
9/9+
Cestovní kancelář
Up the wall to the right of the north edge via 4 rings to the top. Start via the gully on… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
5
Cestovní kancelář
Up the east crack to the balcony, right to the ring, up the wall to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Golem
In the NW face, through the crack to the ring and from the right up the wall to the 2nd… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
7-/7
Golem
In the NE face, over the overhang to the ring and up the wall to the 2nd ring, then up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
7/7+
Golem
Via the 'Emperor's Baker' route to the 2nd ring. From the right along the edge to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
6+/7-
Šikmá
In the middle of the S face with aid climbing, higher up the wall over 3 rings and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
4+
Šikmá
Through the crack at the E edge into the NE face and to the ledge. Traverse left (ring)… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Šikmá
Via the 'Comic Holes' route to the ring. To the left of the ring, directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Šikmá
Along the sharp S edge (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1

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