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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6-
Šikmá
Through the left part of the NE face to the ledge. Up the wall (ring) diagonally left… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Šikmá
Along the right edge of the NE face to the balcony and up the NW face (ring) to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Šikmá
In the right part of the NE face to the ring and (building) up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Budulínek
To the left of the N edge, through the crack to the ring and up the wall to the 2nd ring… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Budulínek
Through the crack in the N face to the balcony and up the wall to the right to the ring,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Budulínek
From the NW, through the crack and along the edge to the right onto a small plateau. Up… Rock Climbing Danger
3
Budulínek
From the SE fore-rock, traverse left into the SW face to a small plateau and up the wall… Rock Climbing
3
Budulínek
From the SE fore-rock, along the S edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Budulínek
Up the SW face to the summit Rock Climbing
7/7+
Schovaná
From the NE, up the wall into a notch and via a crack to the 1st bolt. Along the wall and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
6+/7-
Stěna nad mýtinou
In the far right part of the wall (around the corner from the 'Cat Party' route), via a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
9/9+
Brnkova stěna
To the right of the route "Four Seasons", up the wall over 6 rings n. t. (unknown… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
8-/8
Brnkova stěna
Up the left part of the wall (3 rings) under the overhang. Up the wall to the right over… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5
Brnkova stěna
Between "Brnkova Wall" and the SE pillars of "Wall above the Clearing", via a chimney… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
5
Brnkova stěna
Via the 'Balcony Promenade' route to the window. From there, directly up the right crack… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
6-
Brnkova stěna
From the NE, via a chimney between "Brnková Wall" and Cat Castle, higher up via a groove… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6-
Podhradí
Up the narrow NW wall (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6+/7-
Podhradí
In the middle of the NE wall, via a jam to the ring and right up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Podhradí
Along the sharp E edge (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6+/7-
Podhradí
Along the left edge of the NE wall (1st ring), traverse right into the jam, which leads… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Krkavec
From the E, via the Rajbas Promenade over K and the hourglass to the pillar.
4+
Podhradí
To the left of the NE wall, via a corner (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4-
Krkavec
From the dissected corner on the N side of the tower, via cracks to the right to the 1st… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow
6-
Krkavec
The ascent starts below the valley wall behind a large pine tree. To the right of the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Krkavec
From the dissected corner on the N side of the tower, via a crack to the left under the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow
4-
Krkavec
From the valley side, up the wall below the N edge of the tower into a corner, through… Rock Climbing Route in shadow
2+
Krkavec
From the S, via chimneys to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Kastelán
In the middle of the NE wall via a crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Spare Route
3
Kastelán
From NE along the E ridge to the SE pillar. Descend to the saddle and via the 'Old Stairs… Rock Climbing
5
Kastelán
From NE via a crack to the ledge. Up a narrow crack (ring) and along the edge to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay

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