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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

5+
Kastelán
From NW, from the tourist path, via a small crack to the balcony and along the inclined… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2+
Kastelán
From SW via steps and a crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Varta
From W via the wall to the pre-summit and along the S ridge to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Varta
From SE via the overhanging wall to the pre-summit. Via the 'Southern' route to the… Rock Climbing
3
Varta
Up the wall along the E ridge to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Varta
From NE via the chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Pavouk
Along the face left next to the route "Ringing Corner" (2 rings) and traverse right into… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
9/9+
Pavouk
Along the west edge (4 rings) and left along the face (5th ring) to the 6th ring. Right… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4-
Karbaník
Through the corner in the left part of the NE face and a crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow
2+
Karbaník
Up the NE chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow
8/8+
Karbaník
Up the overhanging valley wall via 4 rings to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Overhang
5+
Karbaník
Up the crack in the right part of the SW wall to a small platform and left along the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Karbaník
Up the wall with plinths to the left next to the 'Prší' (Rains) route to the first bolt,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
2+
Karbaník
From the SW via the chimney between the tower and the "Žebrák" to the platform. Up the… Rock Climbing
6-
Karbaník
From the chimney in the SW wall, traverse left via the wall to the plinth and through it… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Žebrák
Through the left part of the upper (SW) wall via the hole to the ring and slightly right… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4-
Karbaník
From the NE via the wall to the ring of the 'Dírou' (Through the Hole) route and along it… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2+
Žebrák
Up the chimney between the tower and the "Karbaník" to the platform. Up the wall to the… Rock Climbing
4+
Žebrák
From the start of the 'Jižní hrana' (South Edge) route via the crack, higher up via the… Rock Climbing Textile belay Danger
?
Karbaník
Up the South chimney and crack to the balcony, left across the plateau and via the crack… Rock Climbing
5+
Žebrák
From the boulder below the SW wall traverse right onto the S edge and along it to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Žebrák
From the NE (from the slope) up the wall along the E edge (1st ring) to the 2nd ring.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Žebrák
Follow the 'Beranova' route to the 2nd ring. Directly up the wall to the balcony. Follow… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Žebrák
Along the East edge (ring) to the 1st ring and further directly along the edge to the 2nd… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Žebrák
The start is below the S edge. Up the crack and along the edge via the 'Jižní hrana' … Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Žebrák
From the NE via the corner and wall to the small platform between the tower and the … Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Žebrák
Directly up the center of the NE wall (2 rings) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Žebrák
Up the crack to the right of the S edge and via the wall to the 2nd ring of the 'Beranova… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
Přeskok
Budík
From the SE summit to the NW summit. Rock Climbing
5
Budík
Via 'Front Way' to the beginning of the terrace. Traverse the face to the right to the S… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay

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