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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

5+
Mučírna
via the wall to the ring and to the top. Fixed belay
?
Mučírna
?
Mučírna
Start in the middle of Mučírna and via one bolt hanger (boulder) into the route 'Koule Ve… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
?
Mučírna
via the independent wall (ring) and to the top. Fixed belay
?
Pater-noster
?
Pater-noster
along the edge (ring) to the top. Fixed belay
5+
Pater-noster
via the wall to the flakes (ring) and to the top. Fixed belay
8+/9-
Mučírna
Short bouldering route via 2 bolt hangers directly to the ledge to the ring. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
10-/10
Mučírna
Start via the small corner (Jambora direct) and from the ledges (bolt hanger) left to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
6
Pater-noster
via the corner to the top.
?
Pater-noster
along a system of cracks (rings not great) to the ledge, left (circle) and via a shallow… Fixed belay
6
Pater-noster
?
Pater-noster
Fixed belay
5+
Pater-noster
?
Pater-noster
via a fine crack in the wall (circle) to the ledge and n. v. Fixed belay
5
Pater-noster
via the left crack running left n. v.
?
Pater-noster
up the wall into the crack (circle), then along it to the ledge and n. v. Fixed belay
6
Pater-noster
along a fine falcon's perch (circle) to the ledge and n. v. Fixed belay
?
Pater-noster
along the falcon's perch (circle) to the ledge and n. v. Fixed belay
3
Zbytečných lan
along the edge to the block
6
Pater-noster
via the middle crack n. v.
5
Pater-noster
via the right crack n. v.
8-/8
Pater-noster
Approach via "Chinese Teahouse" or the route on the left (its 1st bolt) and directly up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
3
Zbytečných lan
wide crack to the block
4
Zbytečných lan
via the corner crack n. v.
5+
Zbytečných lan
via the corner to the circle and along the crack n. v. Fixed belay
5+
Zbytečných lan
shallow corner to the block and along the crack (circle) n. v. Fixed belay
?
Zbytečných lan
left around the edge (circle) to the block and via the corner n. v. Fixed belay
5
Zbytečných lan
along the edge n. v. Fixed belay

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