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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

7+/8-
Zbytečných lan
Between the routes "Damocles' Sword" and "Diadem", directly up the wall (2 rings) to a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7-/7
Zbytečných lan
along a fine crack (circle) n. v. (abseil point) Fixed belay
6+/7-
Zbytečných lan
along the crack (circle) n. v. Fixed belay
5+
Zbytečných lan
smooth wall under the overhang (circle) over it (circle) and n. v. (aid climbing) Fixed belay
2
Zbytečných lan
6
Zbytečných lan
smooth wall under the overhang (circle) and n. v. Fixed belay
6-
Zbytečných lan
right notches to the circle, left n. v. Fixed belay
4
Zbytečných lan
5
Zbytečných lan
7-/7
Zbytečných lan
Via a fine crack (ring) up to the top. Fixed belay
7/7+
Zbytečných lan
Between the routes "Corner Delight" and "Criminal Prosecution" directly up the wall (2… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
9/9+
Zbytečných lan
Through the corner to the first ring and then slightly right to the ring. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Zbytečných lan
Via the corner crack (rings) up to the top. Fixed belay
?
Zbytečných lan
Directly up the wall (2 bolts) to the handhold to the ring. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8-/8
Zbytečných lan
Up the wall 2m left of Hitman, right to the balcony to the ring. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8/8+
Zbytečných lan
Start left of Samurai's Sword, over the side steps to the top slightly right into Samurai… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8/8+
Zbytečných lan
Along the sharp edge to the balcony and up to the top.
4
Zbytečných lan
Via a wide crack into the chimney and then through it up to the top.
10-/10
Zbytečných lan
Middle of the wall (without the right block) over very fine chimney entrances (ring and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Zbytečných lan
Over blocks traversing right upwards all the way to the top.
?
Zbytečných lan
Over blocks to the ledge, up the wall to the ring and then? to the top. Fixed belay
6
Zbytečných lan
Over the steps to the ring and then up to the top. Fixed belay
6+/7-
Zbytečných lan
Start 4 m left of the route "Rébus" along the chimney entrance and up the wall (bolt) to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Zbytečných lan
Along the edge (ring) and then up to the top. Fixed belay
6-
Zbytečných lan
Over the ledges to the ring and via a fine crack up to the top. Fixed belay
6
Zbytečných lan
Via the chimney entrance into the chimney (ring) and through it up to the top. Fixed belay
3
Zbytečných lan
Via the corner crack up to the top.
5
Zbytečných lan
Along the fine cracks up to the top.
6-
Sarajevo
From the left, via a wall into a shallow groove (ring) and building up to the top. Fixed belay
3
Zbytečných lan
Via the corner crack up to the top.

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