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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6
U Zuzany
Directly up the wall (ring) left onto the ledge (ring) and to the top. Fixed belay
6
U Zuzany
Slightly from the left directly (bolt) onto the ledge. Ring added subsequently. (ring)… Fixed belay
6
U Zuzany
Up the finely milled wall over the small ledges (ring) and to the top. Fixed belay
5+
U Zuzany
Along the rounded edge to the top.
5
U Zuzany
Directly over the small ledges from the left to the ring, right to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
4
U Zuzany
Over the small ledges (ring) to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
7/7+
Centrál
Up the wall directly to the ring, by aiding/building up1) upwards to the ledge, left to… Fixed belay
7/7+
Centrál
Directly to the ring slightly left (ring) 2) to the top. Fixed belay
7-/7
Centrál
Up the wall directly to the ring, along the 'sokolík' (small rock feature) to the ledge,… Fixed belay
7+/8-
Centrál
Up the wall directly to the ring, upwards to the ledge and to the ring. Ring added… Fixed belay
7
Centrál
Via a prominent crack (ring) to the top (ring). Ring added subsequently. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
?
Centrál
To the ring same as route no. 88, left over the cornices to the second ring. Fixed belay
7+/8-
Centrál
Directly up to the ring, further to the cornice and from there diagonally right to the… Fixed belay
7-/7
Centrál
Along the 'sokol' (rock feature) to the ring, (with aid) under the overhang, to the right… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7+/8-
Centrál
Up the smooth wall directly to the ring and upwards into the summit corner, through which… Fixed belay
8+/9-
Centrál
Up over the overhang (ring), over the bulge to the ledges and left along them (ring).… Fixed belay
7-/7
Centrál
Ring added later. Fixed belay
4
Centrál
Over the overhang to the balcony and through a wide prominent chimney (ring) to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
5+
Centrál
Over the overhang to the balcony, from the chimney (ring) left to the pillar and along… Fixed belay
6
Centrál
Up the small pillar to the small balcony, up the wall to the ring and diagonally right… Fixed belay
6
Centrál
Directly to the ring and straight up, then along the Loop route. Fixed belay
7
Centrál
Directly over the ledges to the ring and further up to the top. Fixed belay
7-/7
Centrál
Up the wall to the ring and to the top. Fixed belay
6
Centrál
In the wall to prominent ledges, traverse diagonally right to the ring and further up to… Fixed belay
3
Centrál
Up the crack to the block and to the ring, up into the summit notch and through it to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
6+/7-
Centrál
Up the wall along the edge to the ring and to the top. Fixed belay
7-/7
Centrál
Directly along the edge left to a ledge, via route Hnojní (hourglass) to the top. Rock Climbing
?
Centrál
Up the edge and continue at the height of the first third of the wall until the route… Fixed belay
7-/7
Centrál
Directly along the edge to the top.
?
Centrál
Up the edge and continue diagonally right upwards to the exit of the route Direct Variant…

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