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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

4
Nad hřištěm
Along the blunt edge past the flakes to the top.
6-
Nad hřištěm
Up the small wall to the ring and directly to the top. Fixed belay
5
Nad hřištěm
Through fine cracks under the overhang and to the top.
6
Nad hřištěm
Up a prominent wide crack (fixed sling) n. v.
6-
Nad hřištěm
Up the corner notch n. v.
5
Nad hřištěm
Up the corner over round blocks n. v.
6-
Nad hřištěm
To the right of Destrukční cesta (Destruction Path), up the wall over ledges and pockets… Rock Climbing
7
Nad hřištěm
Via delicate flakes into the corner under the overhang and then left n. v.
3
U sokolíků
along the crack over three prominent ledges (ring) n. v. 1) Fixed belay
6+/7-
Nad hřištěm
Up the smooth wall over two rings n. v. Fixed belay
7+/8-
Nad hřištěm
Up the wall along small cracks (2 rings) n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
U sokolíků
directly up the corner n. v.
5+
U sokolíků
along the edge n. v. Rock Climbing
?
U sokolíků
through the center of the wall to the prominent summit notch
4
U sokolíků
over the detached blocks around the prominent summit spire n. v. Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
U sokolíků
to the ring, traverse left under the overhang (spilled blue paint) and then n. v. Fixed belay
6-
U sokolíků
directly to the ring and up to the inclined slab (then traverse right into route no. 31… Fixed belay
6
U sokolíků
slightly right from the ring, traverse left around the ring and then n. v. Fixed belay
6+/7-
U sokolíků
directly to the ring, then left to the ledges and n. v. Fixed belay
6-
U sokolíků
via broken falconets under the overhang to the ring further right n. v. Fixed belay
8/8+
Kazatelny
from the right under the overhang (ring) traverse left and up the slab to the "Svatební"… Fixed belay
6
U sokolíků
via broken falconets to the ring in the wall, further right n. v. Fixed belay
7-/7
Kazatelny
same as route "Svatební" (route no. 18), from the ring right and up the black wall along… Fixed belay
11
Kazatelny
directly through the center of the prominent overhang (boring) up and over 3 rings (route… Fixed belay
6-
Kazatelny
extensive building to the 1st ring, from the 1st ring building to the 2nd ring and then n… Fixed belay
7-/7
Kazatelny
same as route "Svatební" (route no. 18), from the ring left under the overhang behind the… Fixed belay
7-/7
Kazatelny
via a wide crack filled with blocks to the ring, along the ledge right into the summit… Fixed belay
8/8+
Kazatelny
along the left side of the prominent overhang (ring) and directly up (bolt + ring) n. v. … Fixed belay
6+
Kazatelny
Through a shallow corner to the balcony, to the edge (ring) and to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
10
Kazatelny
along the left side of the prominent overhang (ring) traverse right into the center of… Fixed belay

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