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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

3
Strážce ticha
From SW via a small crack to the ridge and via the Ridge Route to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
3
Strážce ticha
To the right of the West edge by stemming into a gully, left along the wall and via a… Rock Climbing Laid wall
2+
Kulička
Along the NW wall to the right onto a balcony on the W edge and along the wall to the… Rock Climbing
4+
Andulka
In the middle of the valley (NW) wall and to the left, small cracks/flakes to the ledge.… Rock Climbing
2+
Andulka
Along the eastern laid-back edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Andulka
Through the middle of the plateau face to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Andulka
At the western edge via a double crack, higher up via a crack to the ledge and up the… Rock Climbing
5+
Padavka
Along the SW face to the ring and left along the face to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
5
Hadí
From the SE traverse along the ledge below the SW edge. Up it to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Danger +1
5+
Recepce
Rock Climbing
3
Písečná
UIAA class 2 From the South from the terrain down along the ledge to the platform and up… Rock Climbing
2+
Recepce
From the highest point of the ledge traverse right and up the face to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Recepce
Rock Climbing
5
Štětináč
From the Spirálová saddle via a short chimney to the fore-rock. Along the edge (K) to the… Rock Climbing
5+
Štětináč
UIAA class 6- Through the opposing chimney between Štětináč and Spirálová to the balcony. Rock Climbing Danger
6
Štětináč
UIAA class 6+ From the chimney between Štětináč and Spirálová along the ledge right into… Rock Climbing
4-
Písečná
Along the SE face left to the balcony and up the face to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Viklan
Rock Climbing
4+
Viklan
Rock Climbing
4-
Veselá
UIAA grade 4. In the left part of the SW face via a chimney, higher up via a crack to the… Rock Climbing
6-
Veselá
At the N edge via a crack over the bolt to the saddle and left via a gully upwards. Rock Climbing
4+
Veselá
Rock Climbing
5
Veselá
UIAA grade 6. To the right of route no. 4, via a crack over the overhang to the platform.… Rock Climbing Danger
4-
Veselá
UIAA grade 4. Via a slanting crack in the SW face to the balcony. Upwards via a crack. Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Veselá
In the SW face, via a crack under the overhang 1st bolt, left over the slabs into the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Veselá
At the southern edge, traverse to the chimney, through it to the balcony and left via a… Rock Climbing
4-
Veselá
Rock Climbing
7-/7
Veselá
Rock Climbing
6
Kafírenská
Start via "Vojta's route", then right via a diagonally overhanging crack and freely to… Rock Climbing Textile belay Danger +2
5+
Slon
kl. UIAA 5+ From N from the terrain along the ledge to the right and up the wall to the… Rock Climbing

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