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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

4
Metrosexuál
From the path from the south, through the valley chimney near the northern edge into the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Vertical wall
4
Metrosexuál
From the start of the Deodorant route, traverse right along the ledge into the corner… Rock Climbing Route in shadow
2
Metrosexuál
From the SE, follow the path to the saddle. Traverse right along the ledge and up the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Laid wall
3
Metrosexuál
Via the descent chimney of the Jezerní route to the wedged boulder. Along the edge of the… Rock Climbing Textile belay Vertical wall
3
Metrosexuál
Between Jezerní and Rákosníček, up the chimney under the wedged block and through the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Vertical wall
6
Metrosexuál
From the south (from the small square behind Ropucha), follow the crack in the corner… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Vertical wall
3
Metrosexuál
Follow the Sestupový komín (Descent Chimney) route on Jezerní to the wedged blocks and… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Vertical wall
5+
Ropucha
From Metrosexual, traverse to the K and then right up the wall. Rock Climbing
5
Ropucha
Rock Climbing
5+
Ropucha
UIAA cl. 6- From the NW, up the chimney and right along the ledge to the ring. Build up… Rock Climbing
7/7+
Rákosníček
Follow the Nízký přelet (Low Flyover) route to the 1st ring and directly up the wall (2nd… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Vertical wall
6
Rákosníček
From the NE, follow the crack to the saddle and then right up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Danger +2
6
Rákosníček
Left of the Vencova spára (Venca's Crack) route, follow the crack (ring) to the balcony… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
2
Rákosníček
From the east exit of the saddle, traverse right around the Metrosexual tower to a small… Rock Climbing Laid wall
5+
Rákosníček
Follow Ádova spára (Áda's Crack) to the wedged block, traverse left along the wall to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
8-/8
Rákosníček
Up the center of the valley (NW) face over the overhang to the 1st ring and traverse left… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6+/7-
Rákosníček
Three meters up the Southwest corner and traverse left on the ledge to the 1st ring. Up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
3
Rákosníček
From the SW, follow the corner crack past the wedged block to the saddle and then the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Vertical wall
6+/7-
Rákosníček
Along the west ridge directly to the 1st ring of the Barcelona 92 route. Rock Climbing Vertical wall
7/7+
Jezerní
Rock Climbing
5+
Čochtan
kl. UIAA 6 Via a crack over the overhang to route no. 2 and along it n. v. Rock Climbing
4-
Čochtan
At the E edge via the chimney between the tower and Jezerní tower up to the opposition… Rock Climbing
4+
Čochtan
kl. UIAA 5 From the chimney between Čochtan and Jezerní wall right to the crack in the NW… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Rusalka
kl. UIAA 7-Route no. 1 to the block, via a crack to the ledge and down along it to the… Rock Climbing
4+
Rusalka
kl. UIAA 5From SW corner. crack to the block, via crack or right wall to the pillar and … Rock Climbing Danger
8-/8
Rusalka
Rock Climbing
7-/7
Rusalka
Rock Climbing
4-
Boulder
Via the little falcon along the left edge to the shelf (knot) and diagonally right to the… Rock Climbing
5
Boulder
Rock Climbing
5
Vodník
kl. UIAA 5+Via a crack in the NE wall to the shelf to the ring. Through the left gully… Rock Climbing

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