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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

4+
Babka
Rock Climbing
4-
Babka
Rock Climbing
3
Babka
UIAA grade 3. From the NE from the saddle by scrambling/climbing and by the gully to the… Rock Climbing
4+
Babka
Rock Climbing
4-
Babka
From the N by the chimney between the tower and the NW fore-summit to the wedged block.… Rock Climbing Danger
4-
Babka
UIAA grade 3. From the blocks on the NW along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Danger
7-/7
Větrná
Route Hladká up to the crack, by the wall diagonally left to the 1st K. By the wall to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Větrná
UIAA grade 5. From the SE by the chimney to the wedged boulders. By the crack to the end,… Rock Climbing
5
Větrná
UIAA grade 5+. By the crack in the NE wall between the summits. By the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Větrná
Stemming between Vnučka and Větrná to K. Progress to the ledge and by the wall right to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7/7+
Větrná
Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Větrná
From the SE from the wedged block by stemming to the 1st K. By the wall left to the 2nd K… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Větrná
UIAA grade 5. In the middle of the SW wall, by the crack (ring) to the balcony. By route… Rock Climbing
5
Větrná
By the old route 5m up and left by the wall over K to K. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Větrná
UIAA grade 6+. Route Telecí. 3m up and left by the crack to the small cave. By stemming… Rock Climbing
7-/7
Větrná
From the edge to the 1st K and by the wall right to the cave. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Větrná
From the SE by the crack to the balcony. Rock Climbing
4+
Větrná
UIAA grade 4. In the right part of the SW wall, by a slanting crack to the balcony. Left… Rock Climbing
5+
Růže
UIAA grade 6+. By the crack in the SE wall (K) to the platform. By the old route to the… Rock Climbing
7/7+
Růže
Left of the 'SE crack' by an overhang (bolt) and the wall (3 rings) under the overhang.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
7-/7
Trn
At the southern edge from the square by building/stacking into the gully onto the shelf… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
6
Trn
From the SW via opposition (ring) to the ledge to the 2nd ring. Up the wall (3rd ring)… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
3
Lump
To the right of the SE crack, via the wall, a shallow gully and the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Lump
Southwest wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Lump
From the start of the valley route, via the chimney and diagonally left up the wall to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Blecha
To the left of the Bleší trh route's start, a wide crack in the corner to the ring. Via a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Blecha
From the exit of the inner space between Blecha and Lump via a crack to the saddle… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Blecha
In the left part of the inner space between Blecha and Lump, via a small hawk (ring) and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5+
Blecha
Left of the western edge, directly up the wall over the overhang (ring) to the ledge. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7+/8-
Blecha
To the right of the 'Southwest Chimney' path, up the wall to the 1st ring and by chimney… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay

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