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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6
Sfinx
From NE via a small chimney and a crack (ring) to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5
Sfinx
Through the chimney between Kitchen and Sphinx (or the Kitchen wall from NW) to the ramp.… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Danger +1
6
Sfinx
From the ring of the Kuletrh route, diagonally right up the wall to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
5
Kuchyň
From SW, up the wall to the terrace, traverse right along it and up the crack to the top. Rock Climbing Route on sun Vertical wall
5
Kuchyň
From the right part of the terrace, up the crack to the ledge. Along it to the right and… Rock Climbing Route on sun Vertical wall
6+/7-
Kuchyň
From the left part of the gorge between Sphinx and Kitchen, up the wall to the 1st ring.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
6+/7-
Kuchyň
From NW, up the wall over the overhang to the 1st ring. Up the wall (2nd ring) to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
7-/7
Kuchyň
Via the Kuletrh route to Sphinx to the ring, over the overflow and up the wall (2 rings)… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
5
Kuchyň
Left of the start, up the wall over the overhang and traverse right in the ledges into… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Overhang
5
Kuchyň
Up the NW crack to the pre-summit. Up the wall to the top. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Vertical wall +1
5+
Beata
Right of "Valley" via a crack and the wall (2 rings) to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
3
Kobra
From the SW via chimney or ledge from the W, and over blocks to the right to the edge.… Rock Climbing Textile belay Laid wall
4+
Kobra
Directly over the overhang to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay Overhang
3
Kobra
Follow the SW Ridge route up to below the overhang. Traverse right along the wall into a… Rock Climbing Textile belay Laid wall
6
Kobra
To the right of the south edge, via crack and wall to the 1st ring. Via gully (2nd ring)… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Laid wall
6+/7-
Humambo
In the left part of the NE face, via the crack (ring/bolt) and chimney left to the block … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
5+
Kobra
Along the blunt south edge to a small balcony at the 1st ring, directly along the edge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
?
Humambo
From the top of the Cobra, jump to the terrace and then up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Humambo
From NW via the valley notch (added ring/bolt) to the ledge and via the route "Western… Rock Climbing
7-/7
Humambo
From NE, via the wall to the right to the 1st ring/bolt. Via the crack and gully to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
4+
Humambo
At the W edge, up the wall (ring/bolt) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +2
4-
Mařenka
From the plateau side, up the main wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay Danger
2+
Humambo
From SW, via the wall over the platform to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay Laid wall
4
Humambo
Right of the western edge of the advanced pillar, via the gully and the wall (ring/bolt)… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
7+/8-
Mařenka
Right of the route "Smrčková", from the fore-rock, via the wall to the 1st ring/bolt and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
6-
Junácká vyhlídka
From SW, from the block, traverse left via the wall into the indentation, then via the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
6+/7-
Junácká vyhlídka
In the middle of the SW face, in the chimney by stemming (ring/bolt) and via the corner… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6
Velká bašta
In the right part of the SW face, via cracks to the ledge with a ring/bolt. Left via the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
5+
Velká bašta
Left of the Nášup route through the crack (ring/bolt) and higher up to the right via the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
5
Velká bašta
Right of the Old Route, via the wall (crossing the route "Lady's Gully") to the ring/bolt… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1

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