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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

7+/8-
Kukačka
Rock Climbing
8/8+
Kukačka
Rock Climbing
7-/7
Hrad
Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Hrad
Via "Ebola" route to the second ring, then right by slab over 2 rings below the head, and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
4-
Kukačka
UIAA class 4. From SE chimney to the terrace. By S face and stemming to the top. Rock Climbing
7/7+
Hrad
Rock Climbing
7/7+
Hrad
By crack in the valley face (right of Fialová bába route) to the 1st ring. By face… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
7-/7
Hrad
Rock Climbing
8-/8
Hrad
Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Hrad
Rock Climbing
5+
Hrad
Rock Climbing
6
Hrad
Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Hrad
Rock Climbing
7/7+
Šikmá
From SE face (3 rings) to the balcony. Via Sokolík (ring and bolt) and face to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
4+
Páže
Rock Climbing
6-
Páže
Rock Climbing
3
Páže
UIAA Class 3 In the left part of the SW wall via crack, higher up the wall, to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7/7+
Páže
Rock Climbing
7-/7
Páže
Rock Climbing
7-/7
Srna
In the left part of the valley wall from the chimney, diagonally right, up the wall over… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
5+
Páže
Via the Old Route to the saddle. To the right via the gully and up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +2
3
Páže
Via crack in the SW wall to the saddle between Šikmá and Páže. Via crack to the balcony… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
7-/7
Srna
In the right part of the valley wall, via crack to the 1st ring. Straight up the wall (3… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5+
Srna
UIAA Class 5+ From the fore-rock obliquely up the NE wall to the edge to the ring. Aid… Rock Climbing
7/7+
Srna
Middle of the south wall, via crack 1st ring to balcony 2nd ring, up the wall to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Vertical wall
5
Malá bašta
From the NW, via the crack to the balcony, and via the corner crack (ring) to Malá bašta.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Malá bašta
Up the wall along the northern edge (2 rings) to the pine tree and via steps to Malá… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
?
Malá bašta
Rock Climbing
7-
Větrná
UIAA cl. 7-Up the wall along the S edge and right to the ring. Diagonally down the wall… Rock Climbing
7-
Větrná
UIAA cl. 7-Start below the right part of the SE face. Up the wall to the pre-rock,… Rock Climbing

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