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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

5+
Velká bašta
In the left part of the NE face, via the crack to the ledge with a ring/bolt, then up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
3
Velká bašta
From the NE corner through a narrow passage into a small chimney. Through it to Malá… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Vertical wall
6
Velká bašta
Left of the Předkrm (Appetizer) route via a double crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Vertical wall
5
Velká bašta
Left of the Severovýchodní průlez (Northeast Passage) route via a small crack to a small… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Vertical wall
5+
Velká bašta
From the SE via a crack to Malá bašta (Small Bastion). Up the wall to the balcony and by… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
5
Velká bašta
From the NW via a crack to the balcony, and a corner crack (ring) to Malá bašta (Small… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
6-
Velká bašta
Up the wall along the north face (2 rings) to the pine tree and via steps to Malá bašta … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
5+
Velká bašta
From the start of the Zářez (Notch) route, traverse left on the ledge to the 1st ring,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Laid wall
5
Velká bašta
At the east edge to the ring and along the edge to Malá bašta (Small Bastion). Up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
2
Velká bašta
From the NW through the chimney past the wedged block to the balcony and by the Ancient… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
4
Velká bašta
Left of the Pravý údolní komín (Right Valley Chimney) route via a crack over a small… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Vertical wall
6-
Velká bašta
Through the crack in the N face to the ledge (ring) and along the left edge to the spruce… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
5+
Velká bašta
Through the center of the NW face via two rings, to the spruce tree and optionally to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
3
Velká bašta
Left of the Strážní schůdky (Guard Steps) route up the wall along the slanted crack to… Rock Climbing Laid wall
3
Velká bašta
Right of the west edge (behind the birch) using fine holds up the wall slightly left to… Rock Climbing Route on sun Laid wall
3
Velká bašta
Left of the Ancient Route up the wall with fine ledges to the balcony and by the Ancient… Rock Climbing Route on sun Laid wall
3
Velká bašta
From the start of the Vhloubením (Hollow) route, traverse left along a slanted ledge to a… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Laid wall
2
Velká bašta
Through the center of the SW face via a crack, over blocks to a ramp, left onto a balcony… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
4
Velká bašta
By the ancient route below the small chimney, traverse right along the ledge to the small… Rock Climbing Textile belay Laid wall
5
Velká bašta
By the ancient route to the ramp. Up the wall below the abseil point (ring) directly to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Laid wall
2
Velká bašta
From the ramp through the chimney directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Laid wall
4+
Skrček
UIAA cl. 3Up the wall over the overhang to the summit. Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Skaut
Left of Mládežnická cesta (Youth Route) up the wall (ring, bolt) into the gully to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
7-/7
Skaut
From the NE, from the passable chimney, up the overhanging wall to the 1st ring, up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
5+
Vyhlídková bašta
Directly up the center of the NW face to the ring. Right up the wall and left along the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
6
Vyhlídková bašta
In the right part of the NW face, over the ledge to the balcony to the ring. Up the wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
6
Vyhlídková bašta
Along the north edge and crack (ring) to the balcony, then right to the 2nd ring near the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
7/7+
Kukačka
Rock Climbing
5+
Kukačka
UIAA class 5. From SW by crack over the overhang and traverse by face downwards to the… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Kukačka
Rock Climbing

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