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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

2+
Blecha
From SW from the saddle up the sloping chimney to the terrace and via the Plateau Path… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Blecha
In the left part of the SW face, up the curved dihedral (1st ring) left to the 2nd ring… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
4-
Blecha
In the left part of the SW face, on the ledge left to the edge, along it and left up the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
?
Blecha
Up the Plateau (NW) wall to the pillar and via the 'Jump' path to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
?
Blecha
Up the Southern edge to the pillar and via the 'Jump' path to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
?
Blecha
From the passage between Humamb and the pillar, up the SW crack to the pillar and via the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
?
Blecha
From the passage between Humamb and the pillar wall via the flake (K) left onto the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
?
Blecha
Up the Plateau (NW) crack to the pillar, by a jump and wall to the terrace. Via the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Strážce
Rock Climbing
5+
Blecha
From the block at the southern edge, up the wall to the right to the ring and up the wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
2+
Blecha
To the terrace up the wall from NE. Rock Climbing
3
Blecha
From SE up the chimney to the terrace, left up the chimney and wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7-/7
Strážce
Up the center of the SW face over 3K and further along the edge to 4. K. Then up the wall… Rock Climbing
6
Strážce
UIAA cl. 6+. Up the S face into the depression. By building moves over the overhang into… Rock Climbing
5+
Strážce
To the right of the Old Path, up the wall over K to the saddle and left up the wall over… Rock Climbing
6
Strážce
UIAA cl. 6+. From NE up the chimney to the balcony. Up the crack (ring) to the hourglass… Rock Climbing
6
Strážce
UIAA cl. 6. Right part of the NE face (2 rings) up. Rock Climbing
7-/7
Strážce
Rock Climbing
4-
Strážce
UIAA cl. 3. Up the NW face, higher up via a crack to the pre-summit. Up the wall. Rock Climbing
5+
Strážce
UIAA cl. 5+. Up the crack of path no. 1 to the end (ring). On the ledge traverse down and… Rock Climbing
6-
Strážce
From the saddle of the Old Path, pass into the valley wall (hourglass). Traverse right to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6+/7-
Skluzavka
Through the crack of Wide path to the edge and along the wall to 3. K. Rock Climbing
7-/7
Skluzavka
Up the SW wall over 2 rings further to the ledge of the Wide Route and traverse left… Rock Climbing
6-
Skluzavka
From the edge via K to 3. K of the Toboggan path and by that further up. Rock Climbing
4-
Skluzavka
UIAA cl. 3. Up the crack in the NW face to the right onto the ledge, traverse right along… Rock Climbing Danger
4+
Skluzavka
Difficulty UIAA 5Z In the V-gully via a diagonal crack and up the wall to the right to… Rock Climbing
4+
Skluzavka
At least something - From E up the wall to the left to the K. Rock Climbing
3
Skluzavka
Via the NE edge route to the small balcony, traverse along the ledge left about 5m. Up… Rock Climbing
3
Skluzavka
From NW, up the diagonal crack to the left to the balcony. With the edge to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Sfinx
In the chimney between Kitchen and Sphinx, via opposition (ring) and diagonally left up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1

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