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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

?
Vodník
kl. UIAA Traverse 2From SE by traversing from the edges to the plateau. Wall n. v. Rock Climbing
5
Malý okraj
In the middle of the S. wall, obliquely through the crack all the way to the thicket at… Rock Climbing Vertical wall Spare Route
5
Boulder
Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Biskupská stolice - severní vrchol
In the passage through chimney 1st ring further by sokol, by crack 2nd ring by face… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
9/9+
Biskupská stolice - hlavní vrchol
on the NE edge of the passage, left by slab (3rd bolts) to the second ring of the … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
7
Velký okraj
Via the Baf baf route to its first ring, up the wall and higher, stepping right over the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
2
Velký okraj
From the start of the "Nights in Lisbon" route, a long, low-lying trough to the top. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
6
Áňa
From the gorge near "Kafírenská" via the left wide crack over Q below the summit head and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +2
?
Áňa
Via the Northwest Ridge path to Náhradní (Substitute) to a small balcony, then jump to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Áňa
Approach like Spár Buff to the stone and left via the middle crack (ring shared with… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +2
6-
Áňa
From the gorge near "Kafírenská" via the right inclined hand crack to the ledge, up the… Rock Climbing Textile belay Vertical wall +1
5
Náhradní
From the gorge between Náhradní (Substitute) and Dědek (Grandfather) up the wall to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6
Dědek
Via the "Moon Path" to its (RING) by building up and via a small gully to the ledge to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
5+
Dědek
UIAA cl. 6. From SE by opposition against a boulder into the ledge and down in it to the… Rock Climbing Danger
3
Zvonek
North edge (ring within reach on the NW face) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
3
Zvonek
By opposition of the Moon Path to Dědek (Grandfather) and along the west edge (ring… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
4
Zvonek
Up the wall directly to the ring of the path Sedlová hrana (Saddle Ridge) and up the wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
3
Zvonek
From Vnučka (Granddaughter) from the gorge via the chimney of the path From the other… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
7-/7
Vnučka
SW face over the overhang (1st ring), left up the wall to the ledge (2nd ring) and along… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
5+
Vnučka
From the valley, up the chimney and step over into the east face (ring) to the plateau,… Rock Climbing Vertical wall
4
Vnučka
From the NE, up the chimney and the slabby wall to the fore-summit. Via the Recreational… Rock Climbing Laid wall
6
Vnučka
From the NE, opposition move using the Bell to a ledge and right up the wall (ring) to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
4
Vnučka
From the NW chimney to the fore-summit. Up the wall over the overhang with a dynamic move… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Vertical wall
6
Rodinný přítel
From the South block, step over to the 1st ring, up the crack to the 2nd ring, and along… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
6
Čárli
Via Traverso to the plateau. Step over and up the wall to the left to the ring. Through… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5
Babka
Rock Climbing
5
Babka
Rock Climbing
5+
Babka
From the South edge by a notch left and by the edge over 2K. Above by the crack over an… Rock Climbing
5
Babka
Rock Climbing
5+
Babka
Directly along the edge to the 1st K. Rock Climbing Fixed belay

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