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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

3
Slon
kl. UIAA 3 From NE via crack, higher via chimney and from chimney via left wall to the… Rock Climbing
5+
Slon
Left in the NE wall via a chimney to the 1st ring and right via a crack over the 2nd ring… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4-
Slon
kl. UIAA 4 From SW via crack into the chimney. Via route no. 1 to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Hroch
Start in the middle of the west face, via the chimney to the ledge and to the ring,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Hroch
Via the 'Politicians' Skin' route to the 1st ring and traverse the wall left to the 2nd… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Hroch
Northeast of Slon (Elephant) into the hollow, diagonally up the crack to the ring and to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
6
Hroch
Via SW chimney to the outer ledge and along it left to the 1st ring. To the right via a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Hroch
SW chimneys to the saddle and by Sandalwood Path to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7-/7
Žába
At the west edge via a dihedral over an overhang, up the wall and a notch to the left to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2+
Hroch
From NE via a small wall or crack to the saddle and up the small wall. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Žába
Left of the south edge up the wall and a dihedral to the 1st ring. Via a crack to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7+/8-
Rotunda
along the west edge 2. bolts to the summit Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
7+/8-
Rotunda
from the passage below the rappel point to the balcony, via a small dihedral (ring) and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
4-
Profesorův kvak
Up the NE wall to the right to the balcony and via Cesta Kybiců to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
5
Profesorův kvak
Left part of the NW wall (ring) to the balcony and along the north edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
4-
Profesorův kvak
Right up the NW wall. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
5+
Profesorův kvak
Through the middle of the plateau (SE) wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
2+
Profesorův kvak
Up the V-edge over the steps. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
3
Medvěd
From the summit of Medvědice, by stepping across to the summit of Medvěd. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay
8-/8
Medvědice
At the western edge, via the small chimney/arete (1st ring) and along the edge (2nd ring)… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5
Medvěd
From the western notch between Medvěd (Bear) and Medvědice (Female Bear), via the crack … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
2+
Medvěd
From the notch between Medvěd (Bear) and Medvědice (Female Bear), through the inner… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
4+
Medvěd
Via the NE crack (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5
Medvědice
From the south, from the overgrown edge, descend along the edge, via the overhang and the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
7+/8-
Medvědice
From the passage through the overhanging crack (1st ring) and left (2nd ring) to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5+
Medvědice
From the deep corridor, via the corner crack near the eastern edge (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
Přeskok
Medvědice
From the overgrown fore-rock (or approach rock) between Medvěd and Medvědice, by stepping… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay
3
Neřád
From the NE, through the chimney between the tower and Lump into the wide chimney/split.… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Vertical wall
2
Neřád
From the plateau side, from the overgrown terrace between Lump and the Jára Cimrman tower… Rock Climbing Route in shadow
2+
Medvědice
From the notch between Medvěd (Bear) and Medvědice (Female Bear), through the inner… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1

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