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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

4
Podzimní
UIAA grade 4. From the 1st corridor (from NE) to the step and above it by chimney and… Rock Climbing
5+
Slunečná
UIAA cl. 5+Route no. 1 to the platform. Right up the face to the summit. Rock Climbing
7
Nekonečno
Middle of the SW face (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8-
Měsíční
UIAA cl. 8- In the right part of the valley wall via crack and wall to a ring. Up the… Rock Climbing
4
Nova
UIAA cl. 4 From NE via the inner chimney to the fore-summit. Via aid climbing to the top. Rock Climbing
8-/8
Měsíční
To the right of Baron Prášil route via wall and crack (1st ring) to 2nd ring under… Rock Climbing
7-
Nova
UIAA cl. 7- From SW via chimney 5m, wall (ring) down and crack to the top. Rock Climbing
4
Přílepek
UIAA cl. 4Right. through the corner crack to the balcony, traverse down the wall and… Rock Climbing
7-/7
Přílepek
Through the middle of the wall over 4 K to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Přílepek
UIAA cl. 5Left from route no. 1 through a crack to the balcony. Continue on route no. 1… Rock Climbing
7/7+
Chrámové stěny
UIAA 7+ grade. Via the Fourth Chimney route for about 15m, then left along the wall,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
9/9+
Chrámové stěny
Via the 'Over the Pulpit' route to the 1st ring. Along the wall over 5 bolts and through… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Chrámové stěny
UIAA 7 grade. Via the Fly route to the 1st ring. Traverse in the wall down and diagonally… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Chrámové stěny
UIAA Class 4. The start is at the 2nd chimney to the right of the Chrámová spára route.… Rock Climbing
9/9+
Chrámové stěny
Via the Bumerang route's crack to a shelf and right up the overhanging wall (3 rings) to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
9+
Chrámové stěny
Follow the Bumerang route above the 1st ring and directly up the wall over 3 rings into… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
8+
Sokolík
UIAA Class 8+. SW face (3 rings) to the top. Rock Climbing
4
Mravenčí
UIAA cl. 4V, on the SW face right via a small chimney crack to a ledge and traverse along… Rock Climbing
4
Mravenčí
UIAA cl. 4V, right of the entrance staircase, via a crack into a small cave. Up the face… Rock Climbing
4
Mravenčí
UIAA cl. 4Z, artificial walls by stemming and up the face to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Mravenčí
UIAA Class 3. Along the west ridge, climb the wall over the overhang along the crack to… Rock Climbing
5
Mravenčí
UIAA cl. 5V, left of route no. 2, via a broken crack into a small cave. Rock Climbing
6-
Kazatelna
From the ledge, up the face over an overhang and directly along the edge to the 1st ring. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
?
Kazatelna
From the Ant Tower, jump to a sloping ledge. Up a gully to the ledge and a notch to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Kazatelna
Via Marika's route to the ledge. Up the NW face and right along the edge (2 rings) to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
Přeskok
Koráb
From the summit of Kazatelna, jump into the chimney in the Koráb face and up it to the… Rock Climbing
6-
Koráb
Via the Skrytá route to the Koutový Massif up to the 2nd abseil ring of Koráb. Traverse… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Kazatelna
From the Temple Passage, up a crack to the 1st ring, then right past the 2nd ring to a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Kazatelna
From the top of the "natural staircase" in the Crown Passage, up a chimney to the NW… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Kazatelna
Through a narrow chimney between the western edge of the tower base and adjacent blocks… Rock Climbing Textile belay

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