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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

8-/8
Bachyně
Rock Climbing
5
Bachyně
UIAA grade 6-. Up the right valley crack (ring) to the pillars. Via route no. 2 to the… Rock Climbing
7/7+
Bachyně
To the right in the NE face via a crack to the 1st ring and along the wall along the… Rock Climbing
8-/8
Bachyně
Rock Climbing
8/8+
Bachyně
Along the South edge over 3 bolts (BH), a ring, a bolt (BH), 2 rings to the top. Rock Climbing
7/7+
Bachyně
UIAA grade 7. Left part of the SE face over an overhang to a ring. By aid climbing from a… Rock Climbing
5+
Bachyně
UIAA grade 6. Up the left valley crack to the pillars. Along the steps to the tower. Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Valoun
Czech Republic Rocks, Czech Mountaineering Association database. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay
1
Jílkova skála
Rocks of the Czech Republic, CHS database. Rock Climbing Route in shadow
7
Monstrum
Rocks of the Czech Republic, Czech Mountaineering Association database.
8-/8
Gigolo
Rocks of the Czech Republic, Czech Mountaineering Association database. Rock Climbing Vertical wall Spare Route
8-
Garrone
Rocks of the Czech Republic, Czech Mountaineering Association database.
4-
Roháč
In the corner below the SE face, up the chimney into the space below the upland side of… Rock Climbing
4+
Mourek
Via the Sneaking Route to Minda onto the block, up the wall to the crack between Mourek… Rock Climbing
4-
Minda
SW chimney to the block. Traverse right in the ledge past the edge into the chimney and… Rock Climbing
4-
Kočičí hrádek
From the gorge, up the chimney in the corner to the flake. Along the ledge left and up… Rock Climbing
6-
Nimiru
Up the wall along the eastern edge (bolt) to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Marabu
NE crack, higher up via chimney to the balcony, double crack and chimney to the saddle… Rock Climbing
5
Ápis
Via the common route to Marabu to the saddle between the summits and up the wall to the… Rock Climbing
4-
Ras
From NE via a short overhanging crack into the inner space. Traverse right to the chimney… Rock Climbing
5+
Asteroid
From the upland side via the corner crack to the small pillar (bolt) and left along the… Rock Climbing
5+
Bolehlav
Via the inner route on Rasa into the inner space and into the chimney. Up the chimney… Rock Climbing
5
Ledříčkova skála
Up the wall and a mossy corner to the right of the "Clean Path" route Rock Climbing
4
Ledříčkova skála
In the right part of the wall, up a small chimney into a crack and up the wall to the… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Textile belay
5-
Ledříčkova skála
Up the wall, higher up via a pillar (jammed nuts, slings) to the left of Ledříček's "cave… Rock Climbing
5
Bleskový kámen
Right part of the wall to the summit (n. t. = na temeno). Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Bleskový kámen
Center of the wall with the "lightning bolt" directly to the bolt (Bh) and to the summit … Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Bleskový kámen
Up the wall along the left edge, higher up along the edge to the summit (n. t.). Rock Climbing
5+
Královská vyhlídka
Right part of the laid-back valley wall in the fall line of the summit block's edge to… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Královská vyhlídka
Left part of the wall (to the left of the corner) along the edge over overhangs (rivet)… Rock Climbing

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