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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

3
Kasiopea
Along the left upper (northern) edge to the top. Rock Climbing
5+
Kasiopea
At the western edge by wide crack and to the right by edge (ring) to the western fore… Rock Climbing
2+
Kasiopea
By upper (NW) face to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Kasiopea
At the left valley (southern) edge by fissure, crack and wall to the right to the ring.… Rock Climbing
7-/7
Andromeda
(UIAA 7) From the start of route 6.3 left by wall (ring) to the 2nd ring of route no. 5… Rock Climbing Danger
?
Andromeda
(UIAA Traverse 2) By traverse from Kameny. Rock Climbing
6-
Andromeda
(UIAA 6+) In the valley (SW) face by crack to its end. Lower by wall to the 1st ring,… Rock Climbing
7-/7
Andromeda
Right from the start of route Lexův hřích by wall to the 1st ring. By wall to the right… Rock Climbing
7-/7
Andromeda
(UIAA 7) Left to NW along the notches to the hole and left by wall (2 rings) to the top. Rock Climbing Danger
4+
Andromeda
(UIAA 5) From SE by small crack into the small saddle. By opposition onto the ledge, by… Rock Climbing
5
Andromeda
By route Svěrák into the niche and to the right by wall to the ring. By aid from the… Rock Climbing
7/7+
Andromeda
Left from the start of route Svěrák by wall to the left to the 1st ring. By wall (2nd… Rock Climbing
6-
Kameny
Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Andromeda
(UIAA 7+) On the slope on the S side by small pillar, or from the right by wall into the… Rock Climbing
4+
Andromeda
(UIAA 5) In the middle of the SE face by gully into the niche and by wall down to the… Rock Climbing
6-
Kameny
Rock Climbing
5+
Kameny
Rock Climbing
5
Kameny
(UIAA 5) Up the crack to the ledge and diagonally right up the wall to the bolt. Up the… Rock Climbing
6-
Kameny
Rock Climbing
4+
Kameny
Rock Climbing
4-
Kameny
Rock Climbing
2+
Kameny
From the uphill side (from NW) by stemming against the small pillar to the top of the… Rock Climbing
6
Kopec
Left of the Eclipse route, up the SE wall of the left pillar into the hole and via the… Rock Climbing
4-
Kopec
Rock Climbing
7-/7
Kopec
The start is opposite the Northwest Wall route on Nanuk. Up the South edge of the right… Rock Climbing
2+
Kopec
From the uphill side over the pillar and up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Podkopec
Right of the Křížková route, by chimney and crack to the bolt. Up the wall under the… Rock Climbing
6-
Podkopec
(UIAA 6) From NW up the wall into the crack and through it over the hole to the bolt. Up… Rock Climbing
3
Kopec
Rock Climbing
2+
Podkopec
From the uphill side (from the North) by traversing over the pillars and up the wall to… Rock Climbing

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