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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

8+/9-
Podkopec
Rock Climbing
6
Podkopec
(UIAA 7-) Along the West edge under the overhang, around it from the right by wall and… Rock Climbing
7-/7
Podkopec
(UIAA 7) In the large corner of the NE wall by a small pillar/flake (1st bolt) and crack… Rock Climbing
5
Kukráč
(UIAA 5+) From the South edge up the wall diagonally left, up and right behind the edge.… Rock Climbing
5+
Kukráč
(UIAA 6-) From the NW gorge up the wall along the crack and by small gully into the hole.… Rock Climbing
4-
Kukráč
From the gorge by stemming onto the West edge and along it to the top of the yellow… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Kukráč
Rock Climbing
6-
Kukráč
Rock Climbing
4-
Kukráč
(UIAA 2) From the gorge by stemming and mantling to the top of the yellow needle. Rock Climbing
4+
Kukráč
(UIAA 5) From NE from the boulder via a short crack, around the hourglass further and up… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Probleson
Rock Climbing
3
Lisoň
Via the West edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Probleson
Via the West edge onto the pillar and traverse to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Lisoň
Via the South edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Probleson
Rock Climbing
2+
Lisoň
Uphill (NW) via crack and up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Mýval
Rock Climbing
3
Mýval
(UIAA 2) From the uphill side via crack into the saddle and descent to the plateau. Along… Rock Climbing
4-
Lisoň
Up the wall along the East edge over the overhang to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Mýval
Rock Climbing
6-
Mýval
Rock Climbing
6
Mýval
Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Mýval
(UIAA 7-)In the SW corner by the wall over the overhang to the ring. Traverse right along… Rock Climbing
6-
Mýval
Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Pižmoň
Through the chimney in the W wall for about 4m to a ledge. Right across two holes to a… Rock Climbing
3
Pižmoň
By the starting chimney of the route 'Pressure Rise' and a wide crack to the top. Rock Climbing
6
Pižmoň
Start right of the S edge. Up the wall to the ring, right up the wall to a small pillar,… Rock Climbing
4+
Pižmoň
Through the crack from the E under a jammed boulder and by climbing through to the top. Rock Climbing
6
Pižmoň
Left of the S edge up the wall and a small pillar (ring) to the balcony. Up the wall to… Rock Climbing
2+
Piškot
Up the SE overgrown wall to the top. Rock Climbing

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