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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

2
Lobkowiczská věž
From the east massif by a leap to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Trajdule
Uphill (SW) by crack and chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Trajdule
From NW by crack and by edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Zdoňovská
(UIAA 4)From the SE foothill by wall to the forked crack. Vertical crack to the pre… Rock Climbing
6
Zdoňovská
Left north edge by wall to K and by crack to balcony on north edge. Due to autumn fatigue… Rock Climbing
5+
Zdoňovská
By the valley (north) edge to the bolt. By wall left along the edge into Umlauf's route's… Rock Climbing
5
Zdoňovská
From NW by corner and by wall into the crack in the W wall. By crack approx. 3m, then… Rock Climbing
4+
Zdoňovská
(UIAA 5)From the foothill by crack in the SE wall. Rock Climbing
3
Zdoňovská
(UIAA 3)From the uphill side on steps to the pre-summit plateau, by aid climbing to the… Rock Climbing
5+
Zdoňovská
(UIAA 5+)From the path NW by wall and from it into the crack in the W wall. By crack… Rock Climbing
6-
Zdoňovská
Right part of the NW wall (2bolts) to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Zřízenec
(UIAA 3)From W to the foothill and by wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Datel obecný
Rock Climbing
4+
Datel obecný
From the SW chimney onto the pillar. By the wall to the hole, traverse right over hour… Rock Climbing
4-
Ornitologická
From NE on grassy steps to the start. By chimney to the uphill plateau and right by… Rock Climbing
3
Misionář
Left, MISSIONARSSTELLUNG wide crack onto pillar K and by the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
7-/7
Ornitologická
Right from the valley (north) edge by wall (2bolts) to the 3rd bolt. By wall from left to… Rock Climbing
4-
Misionář
Rock Climbing
7/7+
Vendula
From the NW crack to the 1st K and by the wall over 3K to the balcony Edge over 2K and… Rock Climbing
4-
Misionář
Middle SE wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Věž Jima Clarka
(UIAA 3)From the neighboring massif descend by crack and step-over to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Věž Jima Clarka
(UIAA 7-)In the valley wall by angled crack (bolt) to the balcony and left by wall to the… Rock Climbing
3
Věž Jima Clarka
(UIAA 3)From the highest point of the gully by chimney to the balcony, by stemming… Rock Climbing
5
Věž Jima Clarka
(UIAA 5+)Between the tower and the Mushroom by chimney into the wall, by small chimney to… Rock Climbing
3
Ape
(UIAA 3)From the neighboring massif descend along the edge to the pillar and by break… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Ape
(UIAA 7-)In the right part of the NW wall, via a crack into a recess and down the wall to… Rock Climbing
7-/7
Ape
Start on boulders below the W edge. Via wall to the left and arête to the ring. Via crack… Rock Climbing
6
Ape
(UIAA 6)Via crack near the left overhanging edge to the ledge. Via wall along the edge to… Rock Climbing
2+
Ape
From the tourist viewpoint above the tower descend by wall to the small balcony and by a… Rock Climbing
6-
Ape
Rock Climbing

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