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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

7-/7
Eskymák
(UIAA 7) Right of route No. 6 by a small crack and wall to the bolt. Up the wall left to… Rock Climbing
6
Eskymák
(UIAA 6+) Directly up the wall to the 1st bolt, from the 2nd bolt directly up the wall… Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Eskymák
Rock Climbing
7-/7
Eskymák
(UIAA 7) Left of the start of the Direttissima variant, up the wall from the left to the… Rock Climbing
6-
Eskymák
(UIAA 7-) By the crack of route No. 1 to its end and directly up the wall to the 1st and… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Eskymák
By the rounded west edge to the 1st bolt and up the wall to the 2nd bolt. Directly up the… Rock Climbing
6-
Eskymák
Directly up the South edge to the 1st bolt. Rock Climbing
6-
Eskymák
(UIAA 6+) In the valley face by the crack up to its end. Traverse down the wall to the… Rock Climbing
6
Eskymákův pes
Up the valley face to the ledge to the bolt and up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
5
Pumpička
(UIAA 5+)Via a crack in the N face. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Pumpička
(UIAA 3)Up the left part of the SW face to a crack and follow it to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Pumpička
(UIAA 3)From the ridge side, traverse in the notch right up to the large hourglass and up… Rock Climbing
5+
Penzion
(UIAA 6-)Up the face along the S edge (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing
4
Pumpička
(UIAA 4)In the right part of the SW face via a crack and face diagonally down to the… Rock Climbing
4-
Pumpička
In the right part of the SW face via a crack and face diagonally left to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Pumpička
(UIAA 2)Up the NE face. Rock Climbing
5+
Penzion
(UIAA 6)Start in the gully between the tower and Pagoda below the center of the face. Up… Rock Climbing
2+
Penzion
From the gully via a short groove to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Penzion
Rock Climbing
5+
Penzion
To the right of the south edge via a crack and chimney into the cave. Via a crack to the… Rock Climbing
6-
Penzion
To the left of the route 'Second Wind', up the face along the west edge (ring) to the… Rock Climbing
?
Penál
(UIAA Traverse 2)By a traverse from the Pantheon to the pillar. Follow route no. 8 to the… Rock Climbing
2+
Penál
(UIAA 2)In the chimney between the tower and Pantheon along the sloping ramp to its end… Rock Climbing
8-/8
Penál
(UIAA 8)Left of route no. 8 via a crack to the 1st ring. Up the face right and down to… Rock Climbing
?
Penál
(UIAA 2)Right of the pillar of route no. 1 via a chimney to the pillar. Up the face to… Rock Climbing
6
Penál
(UIAA 6+)Via a crack in the W face to its end and up the face to the summit. Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Penál
(UIAA 7-)Along the S edge of the NW pillar (ring) to its top. By a step-across and up the… Rock Climbing
4+
Penál
(UIAA 5)Start in the chimney on the E side (from Jidoda). By stemming to the hourglass,… Rock Climbing
7-/7
Penál
(UIAA 7)In the valley face of the left SW pillar via a small chimney and face to the 1st… Rock Climbing
3
Penál
(UIAA 3)From W via a double crack to the pillar and rightwards along the edge to the… Rock Climbing

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