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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

5+
Penál
Rock Climbing
6-
Penál
(UIAA 6)Approach the start via a narrow gully from Tučňák (Penguin). In the middle of the… Rock Climbing
5+
Panteon
(UIAA 6-)Start below the left edge of the SW face. Via a curved crack into the face and… Rock Climbing
5+
Penál
Rock Climbing
4+
Panteon
(UIAA 5)Via cracks from SE. Rock Climbing
?
Panteon
(UIAA Traverse 1)From the corner right of route no. 16, up the face right to the edge and… Rock Climbing
5+
Penál
(UIAA 6+)From SW (behind the Cannon Tube) by stemming off a block and up the face (ring)… Rock Climbing Danger
8-/8
Panteon
(UIAA 8)Follow route no. 7 for about 4m and rightwards to the ring. Up the face right… Rock Climbing
?
Panteon
(UIAA Traverse 1)Along the rounded edge in the middle of the SE face to the 1st and 2nd… Rock Climbing
?
Panteon
(UIAA Traverse 1)In the right part of the SE face via a thin crack and gully into a hole,… Rock Climbing
7-/7
Panteon
(UIAA 7)To the left of route no. 6 along the edge (3 rings) to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Panteon
(UIAA 2)From NW via an inner chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Panteon
(UIAA 6)From NW via a chimney and crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Panteon
(UIAA 6+)From the start of route no. 5 via a small chimney diagonally right below an… Rock Climbing
?
Panny
(UIAA Traverse 2)Start from the ridge side. Up the face to the N pillar, by a traverse to… Rock Climbing
3
Panteon
(UIAA 3)Via a crack in the 7th face below an overhang, crawl into the chimney and up it… Rock Climbing
5
Panny
(UIAA 6-)From NW via the left chimney for 3m, rightwards up the face and crack to the… Rock Climbing
5+
Panteon
(UIAA 6-)Follow route no. 2 below an overhang, rightwards up the face to the ring of… Rock Climbing
3
Panteon
(UIAA 3)Left of route no. 1 via a chimney below an overhang. Up the left, structured face… Rock Climbing
5
Panny
Via a crack in the NW face (ring) to a ledge and via a chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
7/7+
Panny
(UIAA 7+) Up the wall along the right lower edge (hourglasses) to the 1st bolt of route… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7-/7
Panny
To the right of the north edge, up the face (3 rings) and to the right along the edge … Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Panny
Rock Climbing
6
Panny
Rock Climbing
5+
Panny
(UIAA 6+)Up the right part of the NW face (ring) rightwards past the edge, via a chimney… Rock Climbing
3
Panny
(UIAA 2) From the SE by the left chimney. Rock Climbing
5
Panny
(UIAA 6-) From the gorge onto the SE wall downwards to the 1st bolt and up the chimney to… Rock Climbing
3
Panny
(UIAA 3) From the SE by the right chimney. Rock Climbing
6-
Panny
(UIAA 6-) Up the crack in the NW wall (bolt) to the ledge and up the chimney to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Panny
Up the SW wall to the 1st bolt of Honza's route and up it to the top. Rock Climbing

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