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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

4
Panny
(UIAA 4) Up the SW wall to the 1st bolt of route No. 3 and up it to the plateau. By route… Rock Climbing
7-/7
Olymp
(UIAA 7) Start below the E edge. Up the wall downwards and along the S edge (bolt) to the… Rock Climbing
7-/7
Olymp
(UIAA 7-) Right of route No. 3 up the wall and small pillar to the bolt. Right up the… Rock Climbing
7-/7
Olymp
(UIAA 7) Up the W wall (3 bolts) to the top. Rock Climbing
6
Olymp
(UIAA 6+) Through the left part of the N face (below the abseil point) to the hourglasses… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Olymp
(UIAA 7) From the NW up the wall (hourglasses) along the cracks and up the left wall to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Ministranti
Rock Climbing
6
Ministranti
Up the crack from the W route 2m and traverse left to the W edge (1st bolt). Up the small… Rock Climbing
5
Ministranti
(UIAA 5) Up the NW crack and right up the wall along the edge to the pre-summit and to… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Ministranti
Rock Climbing
3
Ministranti
From the upper side (from NE) by traversing into the gap between the towers, up the… Rock Climbing
7-
Mimoň
(UIAA 7-) Left of the S edge up the wall and small pillar (bolt) to the balcony. Up the… Rock Climbing
6+
Mimoň
(UIAA 6+) Up the crack from the E under a wedged boulder and through the squeeze to the… Rock Climbing
2
Mimoň
(UIAA 2) From the NE up the chimney and wall to the top. Rock Climbing
7-
Mimoň
(UIAA 7-) Up the chimney in the W wall about 4m to the ledge. Right over two holes into… Rock Climbing
3
Mimoň
(UIAA 3) Up the starting chimney of route No. 5 and up the wide crack to the top. Rock Climbing
6+
Mimoň
(UIAA 6+) Start right of the S edge. Up the wall to the bolt, right up the wall to the… Rock Climbing
4-
Miluška
(UIAA 4) From the fore-rock into the NW side and along the N edge to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Miluška
At the eastern edge up the wall below the overhang. Traverse right along the wall and up… Rock Climbing
3
Miluška
(UIAA 3) From the fore-rock into the wall of the NW side of the tower. Step right behind… Rock Climbing
4+
Miluška
(UIAA 5) Up the middle of the valley (SW) wall along the small pillars to the ledge and… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Ledkis
Rock Climbing
4+
Ledkis
Via cracks along the North edge to the small balcony towards the hourglasses. Upwards… Rock Climbing
4+
Ledkis
(UIAA 5-) Along the valley (SE) crack. Rock Climbing
5+
Ledkis
Rock Climbing
5
Ledkis
(UIAA 5) Through the crack in the NW wall to its end and right up the wall. Rock Climbing
5+
Králík
Rock Climbing
4-
Králík
(UIAA 4) Start in a steep gully below the South corner of the tower. Left through a short… Rock Climbing
4+
Ledkis
Through the crack in the NW wall to its end and right up the wall. Rock Climbing
5
Ledkis
(UIAA 5) Via cracks along the North edge to the small balcony towards the hourglasses.… Rock Climbing

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