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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

7-
Bezejmenná I
(UIAA 7-) In the middle of the SE wall via a crack into a hole, left up the wall over the… Rock Climbing
6
Bezejmenná II
(UIAA 6) In the right part of the NW wall via a crack to a small balcony, through a… Rock Climbing
5+
Alenčina věž
(UIAA 6-)Via a crack in the West wall to the balcony, down the wall to the edge and then… Rock Climbing
4-
Alenčina věž
(UIAA 4)From the uphill side, via a crack to the balcony and then left up the wall to the… Rock Climbing
7-/7
Alenčina věž
Via the route 'Irregular Start' to the ring and directly up the wall (2nd ring) to the… Rock Climbing
5+
Alenčina věž
From the uphill side, up the wall to the right onto the balcony. Rock Climbing
6-
Alenčina věž
(UIAA 6)Up the uphill wall to the ring, then right to the edge and along it to the top. Rock Climbing
5+
Alenčina věž
(UIAA 5+)From the uphill side, up the wall to the right onto the balcony. Rock Climbing
3
Borovák
Between Borovák and Trojnožka, via a chimney/squeeze onto the pillar and by crossing to… Rock Climbing
5+
Borovák
Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Borovák
Rock Climbing
4+
Borovák
Rock Climbing
4-
Borovák
From the NE, right up the wall into a hole and via the gully to the top. Rock Climbing
4-
Brabčí vršek
Rock Climbing
3
Brabčí vršek
From the uphill side, via a squeeze between the tower and the massif, then by stepping… Rock Climbing
5+
Brabčí vršek
Rock Climbing
6-
Brabčí vršek
Rock Climbing
4-
Brabčí vršek
Left of the uphill (northern) edge, up the wall to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Pevnost machu picchu
Left of the 'Easy Chimney' route, along the southern edge to the top of the western… Rock Climbing
2+
Pevnost machu picchu
From the south, via a chimney between the tower and a prominent western pillar to the top. Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Pevnost machu picchu
Along the western edge, up the wall along a crack past 2 rings to the top. Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Pevnost machu picchu
Up the NW wall diagonally right to a hole and then up the wall through the hole and past… Rock Climbing
5
Pevnost machu picchu
Rock Climbing
2+
Poslední inka
Via the right part of the uphill (SW) wall to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Jezevčí máma
Up the center of the NW wall to a ledge, traverse left along it to the edge, and then via… Rock Climbing
4+
Jezevčí máma
Left of the western edge, up the wall to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Jezevčí máma
Via the northern edge to the top. Rock Climbing
6-
Skalní masiv
Left in the NE wall (ring) to the top. Rock Climbing
2+
Jezevčí máma
Freely up the uphill (SE) wall to the top. Rock Climbing
5+
Skalní masiv
Left in the wall via a chimney and traverse right across the 'Between Raindrops' route to… Rock Climbing

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