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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

4+
Pes filipes
From the SW crack to the balcony, through a crack to the right onto the edge and along it… Rock Climbing
2+
Pes filipes
Up the NE wall to the top. Rock Climbing
2+
Omšelá
Along the curved upper (southern) edge to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Pes filipes
From the upper side traverse along a ledge to the right behind the northern edge and up… Rock Climbing
3
Nečekaná
Up the wall along the upper (northern) edge to the top. Rock Climbing
7-/7
Tabáková
Up the wall to the right of the small crack (bolt) directly to the balcony and via … Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Tabáková
Left of the 'Filterless' route, up the corner crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
8-/8
Zemovka
In the left part of the SW wall along the edge (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Danger
5
Tabáková
In the left part of the wall along the small crack to the right onto the balcony and up… Rock Climbing
5+
Tabáková
Up the wall to the left of the crack on ledges diagonally left to the hourglass and left… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Tabáková
Through the crack in the right part of the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
8+/9-
Zemovka
From the boulder through the center of the SW wall over 2 rings directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +3
6
Zemovka
The start is below the left part of the SW wall. Up the wall along the crack to the ring… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Zemovka
Up the SE wall (ring) along the edge (nut) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6+/7-
Chán
Between the corner and 'Dunihlavec' straight up the wall to the ledge. Along the edge of… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
7/7+
Chán
Via the 'From Venice to Kublai' route to the balcony. From the balcony, up the… Rock Climbing
5
Chán
Right part of the NE wall to the balcony. Via the 'From Venice to Kublai' route to the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
4+
Chán
Left part of the NE wall to the balcony and up the wall to the right of the E edge to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay Vertical wall
4+
Chán
SE wall to the balcony. Via the 'From Venice to Kublai' route to the top. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
4-
Malý Hund
The entrance is at the end of the corridor with the measuring device. Through the corner… Rock Climbing
2+
Chán
Through the chimney between "Chán" and "Malý Hund" to the top. Rock Climbing Route in shadow
6
Žďárská vyhlídka
SE wall (right of the crack) over the overhang to the balcony and via the 'Cesta PP'… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
3
Žďárská vyhlídka
Along the E edge to the balcony and up the wall along the edge to the top. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
6+/7-
Žďárská vyhlídka
Through an indistinct depression straight to the ring of the 'Cesta US' route and then to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
7-/7
Skleněný zámek
SW wall along the S edge (2 rings) to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
7/7+
Skleněný zámek
Middle of the SE wall (4 rings) to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6+/7-
Skleněný zámek
The start is to the left of the 'Beech Princess' route. Left part of the SW wall (3 rings… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
6-
Žďárská vyhlídka
SE wall left along the crack to the ledge and traverse left in it to the ring. Up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5
Žďárská vyhlídka
Through the crack in the middle of the SE wall to the balcony and in the middle of the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
6
Skleněný zámek
Via the 'Beech Princess' route to the hourglass. From the hourglass straight up the wall … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3

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