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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

3
Trautenberg
Southeast corner crack and gully to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Ryba nebo pták
In the passage chimney, ascend the wall of the block to the balcony. Rock Climbing
5
Ryba nebo pták
In the left part of the passage (from NW), ascend the crack or chimney to the balcony and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Trautenberg
From the valley (SW) side, ascend the crack to the ledge and then right along it into the… Rock Climbing
6-
Ryba nebo pták
Along the wall beside the left valley edge (3 rings) to the summit of the "Support Pillar… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Souvěž
The ascent starts in the eastern corner of the conglomerate. In the middle of the NE wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Ryba nebo pták
In the SW wall, ascend the crack before the narrow passage over 2 rings on the pillar, by… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Souvěž
Via the descent route to Myšákovna into the saddle between the towers and left up the… Rock Climbing
7/7+
Souvěž
The ascent starts in the eastern corner of the conglomerate. In the middle of the valley … Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7/7+
Souvěž
To the right of the route 'Path Home', at the edge, ascend the crack and small chimney to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Souvěž
In the western corner, ascend the crack to the ring and then the chimney to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Ementál
To the right, along the valley edge (hourglass) to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Souvěž
From Emmental, ascend the eastern edge (3 rings) to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Ementál
Valley (eastern) edge over the overhang to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Andula
Uphill (NW) wall in ledges to the left to the top. Rock Climbing
4
Ementál
The ascent starts below the center of the NE wall. Diagonally left up the wall to the… Rock Climbing
3
Muštelka
Uphill (western) edge to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Muštelka
Ascend the wall over the overhang and along the southern edge (ring) to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Volí věž
In the middle of the valley wall, ascend the crack (1st ring) to the ledge. Left below… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Volí věž
From the uphill block, step over and along the northern edge to the top. Rock Climbing
4
Vřídek
From the NW from the inner space via chimney to the pillars, by stemming and SW face … Rock Climbing
6
Vřídek
Through the valley (southern) corner to the 1st ring and right by the wall (2nd ring) to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
?
Daffers
Rock Climbing
4
Zelíčko
From the NW via a chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Zelíčko
In the middle of the valley (SE) face via a chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Činžák
UIAA grade 3 Description missing Rock Climbing
5+
Činžák
UIAA grade 5+ From E over blocks into the crack. Rock Climbing
6+
Almara
UIAA grade 6+ In the right part of the NE face via a system of cracks under the overhang … Rock Climbing
5
Činžák
UIAA grade 5 Via chimney and face to the saddle. Via face to the summit. Rock Climbing
7/7+
Věžák
Left of the southern edge via the face diagonally right to the edge to the 1st ring. Via… Rock Climbing Fixed belay

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