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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

5+
Skleněný zámek
NE wall left of the large corner to the top. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
7+/8-
Skleněný zámek
SW wall directly to the ring and via the 'Beech Princess' route to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
5
Skleněný zámek
The entrance is below the NE wall behind the tree. Up the dark wall along the E edge to… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
6
Skleněný zámek
Left part of the SW wall diagonally right to the ring. Left to the hourglass, wall right… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
5
Švejk
Through the 'Maršbaťák' route's chimney for five meters and right with a step onto the… Rock Climbing
3
Švejk
Through the right valley chimney to the tops of the pillars and up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Švejk
From the valley side, up the wall of the right pillar to the ring. Right up the wall to… Rock Climbing
3
Švejk
From the upper fore-rock, up the wall left to the valley edge and along it to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Švejk
From the valley side, ascend the wall of the right pillar (ring) to its summit and then… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Švejk
Valley (SE) wall over a small overhang and a shallow corner to the hourglass. Up the wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Feldkurát
Southeast crack to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Kadet Bígler
From the uphill side, by stemming and along the edge to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Kadet Bígler
From the valley side (from SE), by stemming to the balcony and then the wall to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Feldkurát
Northwest corner to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Cepr
From the tourist path, ascend the crack in the uphill wall to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Cepřice
Uphill (northern) edge to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Cepr
From the start of the Ancient Path, ascend the wall to the ledge and traverse left along… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Bredschneiderova stěna
Valley wall (2 rings) to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Cepřice
Along the wall beside the eastern edge to the top. Rock Climbing
6
Forhometka
On the valley side, from the block, step over to the southern edge and along it to the… Rock Climbing
4
Cepr
From the uphill side along the gallery to the valley side of the tower. Ascend the wall… Rock Climbing
6
Morče
Right valley (southern) edge to the ring, route 'With the Female' to the balcony and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Forhometka
Uphill crack to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Morče
Left part of the valley (SW) wall diagonally right to the ring. Ascend the wall to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Štěpanická bába
Uphill (northern) edge to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Medvídek Pů
Uphill (NW) wall to the top. Rock Climbing
6
Hajnej
Left of the Jay's Path, through the passable chimney to the ring and then the crack to… Rock Climbing
6
Hajnej
From the SE, ascend the chimney to the balcony with the pine tree and then via Jay's Path… Rock Climbing
3
Sojka
From the NW, via a system of chimneys to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Hajnej
From the crack and chimney to the plateau. Traverse right and ascend the wall to the top. Rock Climbing

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