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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

5
Hotel majestic
UIAA class 5. From the recess on the S side via crack and wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Hotel majestic
UIAA class 5+. From NW via crack and wall to the fixed gear. Along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Pamplčuk
UIAA class 5. Via lower crack to the ledge, then rightwards in it to the crack and… Rock Climbing
3
Pamplčuk
UIAA class 3. Via SE cracks to the pillar and wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Kopyto
UIAA class 2. Along the S edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Hotel majestic
UIAA class 6-. From the lower side via crack below the overhang. Below it via wall… Rock Climbing
3
Švec
UIAA class 3. Description missing. Rock Climbing
4
Kopyto
UIAA class 4. Via NW crack to the ridge and wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
7-
Hotel majestic
UIAA class 7-. At the N corner via wall and 'sokolík' (small chimney/flake) to the ring.… Rock Climbing
3
Švec
UIAA class 3. Description missing. Rock Climbing
4
Švec
UIAA class 4. Rightwards on the NE wall via wall and crack to the platform. Via route no.… Rock Climbing
5
Švec
UIAA class 5. Along the N edge to the platform and via wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
4
Pinďa
cl. UIAA 4NW crack to the saddle and wall n.v. Rock Climbing
5+
Pinďa
cl. UIAA 5+From the SE wall to the right under the crack. By building and crack to the… Rock Climbing
2
Bezradný Pavel
E wall and to the left through the gully n.v. Rock Climbing
2
Křivá
From the W block by overhang and along the edge n.v. Rock Climbing
2
Povídálek
Along the S stepped edge n.v. Rock Climbing
5+
Červánková věž
Wall along the SE edge (2 rings) n.v. Rock Climbing
2
Křivá
From the W by chimney and wall n.v. Rock Climbing
2
Kozlí hrad
From the SW chimney to the block and route no. 1 n.v. Rock Climbing
2
Kozlí hrad
From the E by overhanging chimney and wall n.v. Rock Climbing
4
Starej kozel
From the W chimney of route no. 1 to Kozlí hrad by an overhang to the right into the wall… Rock Climbing
2
Starej kozel
From the SE corner to the block and route no. 2 n.v. Rock Climbing
2
Starej kozel
From the NE by chimney to the block, by overhang and wall n.v. (For descent.) Rock Climbing
5
Podzimní vítr
In the left part of the W wall by crack to the balcony to the ring and wall directly to… Rock Climbing
2
Kozlí hrad
From the gorge between the tower and Starý kozel by chimney to the block, by step to the… Rock Climbing
2
Kozlí hrad
From the gorge by opposition and overhang to the crack. Traverse to the right and route… Rock Climbing
2
Kozlí hrad
At the N edge of the main tower by wall (using a gully) and along the long sloping edge n… Rock Climbing
2
Kozlí hrad
From the N by articulated corner to the block and route no. 1 n.v. Rock Climbing
3
Podzimní vítr
In the right part of the W wall via a small pillar to the balcony. Along the ramp… Rock Climbing

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