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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

2
Dva kamarádi
From W by chimney up to the traverse of path No. 2 and by that to the top. Rock Climbing
2
Dva kamarádi
From S traverse by wall left to the small chimney, by which to the top. Rock Climbing
2
Dva kamarádi
From SE from the small saddle along the edge to the top. Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Písař
From E by wall to the block, by jump and by wall to the top. Rock Climbing
2
Písař
From NE by small chimney between the tower and the block, higher up by the wall of path… Rock Climbing
3
Písař
From NW by chimney in the corner between the tower and the block, higher up by path No. 1… Rock Climbing
6-
Děla (Tři prsty)
From NW by wall diagonally right to the edge to the 1st ring. Along the edge (2 rings) to… Rock Climbing
2
Děla (Tři prsty)
Right of path No. 1 by chimney to the block, by stepping over to the balcony of path No.… Rock Climbing
2
Děla (Tři prsty)
From SW by chimney to the balcony and by wall to the NW summit. Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Děla (Tři prsty)
From the block of path No. 1 and by jump to the balcony and by wall up steps to the SE… Rock Climbing
4
Petruška
From W fore-rock traverse left into the valley wall. By wall along the quartz nodules to… Rock Climbing
2
Monika
From N through passage and small chimneys below the tower to the start. By chimney to the… Rock Climbing
5+
Petruška
From W fore-rock directly by wall (ring) to the top. Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Monika
By path No. 1 on Martinkovické towers between the summits and traverse right to the… Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Monika
From NW by jump, crack and along the edge to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Martínkovické věže
Rock Climbing
2
Monika
From S by chimney into the widening, descent to the boulders and right to the edge of… Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Martínkovické věže
By path No. 5 to Monika up to the small platform in the chimney. By chimney for 2m and… Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Monika
From SW by jump into the chimney to a small platform. By chimney to the plateau and by… Rock Climbing
2
Martínkovické věže
SE by chimney between the summits and by wall to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Kamínky
From the W (in the S part of the rock cluster) by chimney to the right onto a small… Rock Climbing
4
Kamínky
Along the W edge (bolt) to the summit. Rock Climbing
4
Martínkovické věže
By the SE wall (bolt) to the summit. Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Martínkovické věže
From the SW fore-rock by stepping over the gorge to the ledge. By the wall (1st bolt) to… Rock Climbing
5+
Martínkovické věže
From Monika's plateau by traverse/overhang and wall to the balcony (sling). To the right… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Kamínky
From the NW by corner chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Kamínky
From the W (from the gorge between the tower and Petruška) by the wall over the knobs and… Rock Climbing
4
Kamínky
From the S (between the tower and the pillar) by chimney onto the pillar. To the right by… Rock Climbing
5+
Stařík
From the NE by a small crack to the saddle between the tower and the rim. By stemming and… Rock Climbing
5+
Bonbon
By the SW gully and right wall to the summit. Rock Climbing

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