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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

5
Mimčo
Rock Climbing
7/7+
Pravěká
In the left part of the SW wall at the edge (2 rings) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
6-
Lhotská
From the south up the wall to the pillar and along the eastern ridge (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2
Vůjtova věž
From NE from the edges by stepping over into the structured wall and up that to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Vesmírná odysea
In the left part of the eastern wall via a crack and the wall left to a small platform… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
6
Vůjtova věž
Left of the western ridge, via a chimney between the tower and the massif up to the large… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Lhotská
From W up the wall to the gully, through which to the summit. Rock Climbing
4
Buldog
From N to a small platform, by building (up) and along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Páteční věž
Rock Climbing
6
Buldog
From E up the wall to the N ridge and along it to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Špičák (Koníček)
Along the E ridge (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing
4
Špičák (Koníček)
From the 1st ring of route no. 2, traverse left under the overhang in route no. 3 and up… Rock Climbing
5
Špičák (Koníček)
Via route no. 1 to the platform. Traverse right diagonally upwards to the W ridge and via… Rock Climbing
5+
Špičák (Koníček)
In the valley wall via a bent crack to the 1st ring. Along the ledge right, above the… Rock Climbing
5+
Špičák (Koníček)
Along the edge directly to the 1st ring. Rock Climbing
6+
Špičák (Koníček)
From NE via a bent crack (ring). Traverse through a notch right to the edge and via a… Rock Climbing
5+
Špičák (Koníček)
From the plateau side, up the S wall left into a gully and up the wall right to a… Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Rozporák
By jumping from the summit of the Great Dwarf. Rock Climbing
3
Rozporák
Via the chimney between the tower and the Great Dwarf to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Rozporák
From NE via a chimney to the fore-summit, by overhang and along the N ridge to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Velký a malý trpaslík
From the summit of Rozporák by overhang and building (up) to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Velký a malý trpaslík
From SW via the right or left crack, higher up via a chimney and route no. 1 to the… Rock Climbing
3
Velký a malý trpaslík
From NE via a crack, higher up via a chimney between the towers and up the wall to the… Rock Climbing
3
Podvečerní
From SW via a chimney and up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Podvečerní
Along the plateau (N) ridge to the plateau and via route no. 1 to the summit. Rock Climbing
4
Podvečerní
Left of route no. 4 up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Podvečerní
Left of route no. 2 via a crack to the plateau and via route no. 1 to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Podvečerní
Via the plateau chimney to the plateau and up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Žlabajs
From W via a gully to the summit. Rock Climbing
4
Podvečerní
Rock Climbing

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