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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

4
Machovská věž
From the NE, through the falcon's crack below the summit and to the left up the wall. Rock Climbing
2
Obří
Via the NE chimney to the pillar and up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Machovská věž
From the S, through the crack below the summit and route no. 1 up. Rock Climbing
4
Krajní
From the NW, via a crack to the splinter and up the SW wall along the edge. Rock Climbing
4
Řeřišná věž
From the SW, via a falcon's traverse to the W edge and up it. Rock Climbing
3
Řeřišná věž
From the S, up the wall along the edge to the pulpit. Traverse right into the NE wall and… Rock Climbing
4
Řeřišná věž
From the W, via a crack to the edge of route No. 2 and up this route. Rock Climbing
3
Vidlička
From the S, via a chimney to the plateau of route No. 1 and up the S edge. Rock Climbing
3
Vidlička
From the N, to the right up the wall to the plateau and up the wall along the crack. Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Brudra
From the east (below the rappel point), up a slightly overhanging wall to the ring and… Rock Climbing Textile belay Vertical wall
7-
Junácká věž
Up the center of the valley pillar (ring), left up the wall into route No. 1 and up that. Rock Climbing
7-
Junácká věž
Via route No. 3 above the ring and to the right up the gully. Rock Climbing
3
Trucovna
From the W fore-rock, traverse along a shelf in the SW wall to the right to the SE edge… Rock Climbing
5+
Junácká věž
Up the NW edge to the ledge and along it to the right into the center of the SW small… Rock Climbing
4
Junácká věž
The ascent starts on the S edge (from Junácká vyhlídka - Scout's Viewpoint). Up the wall… Rock Climbing
5
Kokout
Up the S wall, via a falcon's traverse and to the left along the edge. Rock Climbing
3
Maxipes Fík
From the boulder to the SE edge and up it. Rock Climbing
4
Maxipes Fík
From E (from the boulder) by the wall up. Rock Climbing
4
Procházková
From NE via the chimney between the tower and the adjacent rock to the platform on the S… Rock Climbing
4
Zlezená
From S up the left edge. Rock Climbing
2
Zlezená
From NE via the chimney between the tower and the block to a large hold and up the wall. Rock Climbing
4
Zlezená
By crack to the W pre-rock. Traverse right and up the right side of the W edge. Rock Climbing
3
Zlezená
From SW a long traverse down the wall to the W edge. By the wall to a small balcony and… Rock Climbing
3
Zlezená
Up the S wall below the rappel point. Rock Climbing
3
Zlezená
By path no. 4 to the W edge and directly up the wall. Rock Climbing
5
Kubajs
Up the West edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Zlezená
From NE by the wall to the adjacent block, over the overhang and up the wall. Rock Climbing
3
Zlezená
Directly up the center of the W wall (from the platform). Rock Climbing
3
Zlezená
From the pre-rock, up the S wall along the right edge. Rock Climbing
5+
Kubajs
From the north via the corner to the pre-rock and by the wall along the north edge (ring)… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay

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