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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

5
Nebožka
Along the western edge and to the right through the middle of the valley wall to the… Rock Climbing
2
Nebožka
From the northern edge over overgrown steps to the left onto the eastern edge and along… Rock Climbing
3
Nebožka
From the eastern edge, up the wall to the left onto the southern edge. Rock Climbing
4
Ponožka
Along the left upper (eastern) edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
4
Ponožka
From the upper side, up the wall along the right (northern) edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Malý policajt
UIAA cl. Leap 3. From the summit of the higher pillar to the summit of the lower one. Rock Climbing
5
Velký policajt
UIAA cl. 5. Up the SE wall to the lower pillar. Over the overhang and up the wall to the… Rock Climbing
3
Něžná opička
Through the upper (NE) chimney to the pillar and up the wall over a step to the summit. Rock Climbing
4
Něžná opička
Along the left NE crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Něžná opička
Along the right NE crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Něžná opička
To the right of the southern edge, up the wall to the balcony and to the left along the… Rock Climbing
9
Něžná opička
Along the SE upper edge from the left over 2 rings to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6+/7-
Samota
Start under the right part of the valley wall. Along the wall to the circle and along the… Rock Climbing
5+
Samota
UIAA cl. 5+. From the fore-rock up the SW wall to the right onto the edge and along it … Rock Climbing
4
Lovec
UIAA cl. 4. Route No. 2 on Bouřlivák to the ring. From the chimney/crack up the wall to… Rock Climbing
5
Lovec
UIAA cl. 5. Up the upper wall along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
6+
Lovec
UIAA cl. 6+. Up the upper wall to the right and along the S edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
4
Samota
UIAA cl. 4. Up the N wall (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Bouřlivák
UIAA cl. 5. Up the upper wall to the right to the ring. Up the wall along the edge to the… Rock Climbing
3
Teplická brána
From the upper corner through the chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Bouřlivák
UIAA cl. 5+. In the chimney, traverse to the ring. From the traverse, downclimb to the… Rock Climbing
5
Bouřlivák
UIAA cl. 5. To the ring in the honeycomb formations of the S wall. Rock Climbing
2
Famfulín
From SW, up the steps to the fore-rock and to the right up the upper wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Šesterák
UIAA cl. 3. From E, from the fore-rock up the corner crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Šesterák
UIAA cl. 2. Up the S wall over steps to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Šesterák
UIAA cl. 3. Description missing. Rock Climbing
4
Uragan
UIAA cl. 4. From E, from the corner through the chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Uragan
UIAA cl. 3. From the fore-rock below the NW wall, up the right gully and along the edge… Rock Climbing
3
Uragan
UIAA cl. 3. From the fore-rock below the NW wall, up the left chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Lavor
UIAA cl. 2. Through the small chimney in the upper wall to the summit. Rock Climbing

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