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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

9
Limonádový joe
From SE by a broken falcon (2 circles) and a crack to the 3rd circle. By the wall (4th… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Výhled
UIAA cl. 7. From the boulder near the W edge, over the overhang, up the narrow crack and… Rock Climbing
7-
Písničkář
UIAA cl. 7-. From W along cracks to the 1st circle. Lower falcon and up the right wall… Rock Climbing
9
Jetudlah
From SW up the valley wall (1st circle) and right a crack (2nd circle) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6+
Vozembouch
UIAA cl. 6+. From the Tur. route by the wall to the circle. By crack to the top. Rock Climbing
6
Oušák
From the upper side by stepping onto the left edge (circle) and by the wall along it to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Paraván
UIAA cl. 6. By valley crack (2 circles) to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Nářek
UIAA cl. 5. From the high gorge, traverse in the ledge down and by crack to the balcony… Rock Climbing
6-
Nářek
In the middle of the NW wall, from the cave by overhanging chimney and crack to the… Rock Climbing
6
Nářek
Left of the route "Man's Tears", from the cave by crack over the roof overhang and crack… Rock Climbing
5
Stěna HIS
In the left part of the SW wall by a broken crack (circle) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Jack London
In the middle of the valley wall by crack and chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Bílý den
UIAA cl. 2. From NE from the gorge by the ledge right and by crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
7-
Bílý den
UIAA cl. 7-. Left of the N edge by chimney around the edge onto the balcony to the circle… Rock Climbing
7-
Bílý den
UIAA cl. 7-. In the valley wall by crack over the overhang (circle). By cracks and… Rock Climbing
5+
Stěna HIS
From the crack circle, straight up the wall over the balcony with a pine tree to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Sekyra
UIAA cl. 4. From SW by corner and opposition onto the block on the upper side. By… Rock Climbing
7-
Bílý den
UIAA cl. 7-. From the N edge, traverse in the ledge right to the 1st circle. Along the… Rock Climbing
7
Sekyra
UIAA cl. 7. Left of route no. 1 by chimney into the saddle. Traverse by the wall left… Rock Climbing
7+
Bílý den
UIAA cl. 7+. By route no. 3 to the circle, traverse by the wall right and along the… Rock Climbing
3
Ptačí stěna
Up a wide indistinct corner. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Route in shadow +1
4
Ptačí stěna
The ascent leads up a gray slab. Start on an indistinct edge at a small rowan tree. Up a… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Route in shadow +1
4
Ptačí stěna
Over a small overhang into a prominent break and up a depression. A nice route. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Route in shadow +1
3
Ptačí stěna
Up a prominent crack (slings). Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Route in shadow +1
4
Ptačí stěna
Start about a meter to the left of the prominent crack. Up to the circle in a small break… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Fixed belay +2
5
Ptačí stěna
Start about 2 meters to the right of a strong bifurcated pine tree. Up a short crack in… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Route in shadow +1
3
Ptačí stěna
Start about 0.5 m to the left of a straight pine tree. Up a smooth small wall to a… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Route in shadow +1
4
Jílkova skála
Up the small corner (route no. 11) (sling), step right over the edge into the main wall… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Route in shadow +1
5
Jílkova skála
The ascent leads through a short overhanging corner with an entry on a small platform. Up… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Route in shadow +1
3
Moničin kámen
From the S wall into the diagonal gully and up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun

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