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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

4+
SDS 11
In the middle of the SE wall over K n.v. Rock Climbing
2+
SDS 11
From NE through a chimney to an embedded block and stepped wall above. Rock Climbing
6-
Pravá galerie
Rock Climbing
5
Sumo
Rock Climbing
4+
Pravá galerie
Rock Climbing
6
Pravá galerie
Rock Climbing
5
Pravá galerie
Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Sumo
SW wall to the left to the 1st K and the left valley edge over the 2nd K n.t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Levá galerie
Rock Climbing Danger
5+
Levá galerie
To the right in the valley wall, chimneys to the ramp. To the right through the wall over… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Levá galerie
From NW from Knubbel ravine through a crack to the 1st K. To the right along the edge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Chlívek
Rock Climbing
5+
Pravá galerie
SW wall diagonally right over the 1st K to the 2nd K on the rounded edge. Along it over… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Pinďulka
Southern edge to K and left through the wall above. Rock Climbing
3
Pinďulka
Through the saddle wall and crack above. Rock Climbing
4-
Pinďulka
Rock Climbing
5+
Chlívek
Rock Climbing
5+
Povodňová
Along the left valley edge over K and up through the wall somewhat to the right n.t. Rock Climbing
2+
Tlama
Rock Climbing
4+
Povodňová
Rock Climbing
4-
Tlama
Rock Climbing
2+
Tlama
Left of the S edge on a shelf, traverse left to the balcony and wall n. v. Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Stěna hříchů
From the edge to the 1st K, through a broken groove and wall past the 2nd K n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Tlama
Rock Climbing
4-
Lopuch
Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Lopuch
Along the left bottom edge over ring (K) to top. Rock Climbing
7-/7
Stěna hříchů
To the right of the southern edge, traverse to a ledge to the left and climb the wall to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7-/7
Stěna hříchů
Rock Climbing
8-/8
Lopuch
In the middle of the bottom wall over ring (K) to top. Rock Climbing
5+
Lopuch
At the southern edge with a chimney-like notch to ring (K), wall to the right and edge to… Rock Climbing

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