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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

4-
Trempská
Rock Climbing
4-
Trempská
Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Biskup
From the ledge above the ring, directly up the face (2nd ring) to the platform. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6
Biskup
In the NE face, up the crack to the ring. Building stance and oblique crack to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
7-/7
Biskup
From the SE, stemming to the ring, face right to the crack and up it to the 2nd ring.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
9/9+
Biskup
By the Teplice route to K. From the left, face and crack past 2R to 4R. Face n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Biskup
From the western foothills, traverse right in the ledge to the crack and up it (2 rings)… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Biskup
Along the west edge to the ring. Traverse right in the ledge and up the chimney to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
7/7+
Biskup
Variant Modification (with a strangely added rivet) and face right to the ring on the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Biskup
SW face (ring) directly into the crack to the 1st ring. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2+
Presbytář
Along the south edge to the top. Rock Climbing
2+
Presbytář
Rock Climbing
2+
Presbytář
By the left edge of the saddle n. v. Rock Climbing
8+/9-
Kanovník
Rock Climbing
5
Kanovník
UIAA cl. 5+ From the NW through a crack and then by the wall to the top. Rock Climbing
6-
Kanovník
Rock Climbing
4+
Kanovník
UIAA cl. 5 From the west wall to the ring at the south edge and along it to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Ministrant
Rock Climbing
?
Ministrant
UIAA cl. 1V Crossing in the right part of the NE wall through a crack to the pre-peak. … Rock Climbing
4+
Ministrant
From the right, along the north edge of the west peak over K to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Ministrant
Along the left downhill edge of the west peak over K to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Ministrant
Rock Climbing
6
Ministrant
Rock Climbing
7-/7
Ministrant
Rock Climbing
4+
Ministrant
On the right in the SE wall, at the top through a crack and then by the wall to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Ministrant
Rock Climbing
4-
Ministrant
To the left of Kyzova, using cracks, and to the right by the wall over K to the east… Rock Climbing
4+
Ministrant
Along the left downhill edge of the main peak to the balcony, then using a chimney (K)… Rock Climbing
3
Ministrant
Rock Climbing
4-
Bruncvík
UIAA 4 From the west overhanging side, left or right along the ledge to the inclined edge… Rock Climbing

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