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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

5
Haštalská věžička
Rock Climbing
3
Haštalská věžička
From NW, by building/stacking and traverse right to the small crack. Through the crack… Rock Climbing
5
Haštalská věžička
From the gorge from SE, up a small chimney to the fore-rock. In the left part of the fore… Rock Climbing
?
Majálesová
Jump right from the edge onto the plateau, up the gully and face to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun
2+
Majálesová
From M, a crossing and traverse right to the balcony. Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Rébus
Rock Climbing
5
Rébus
UIAA cl. 5+From E crack to the pillar. Traverse right along the flakes into the E face … Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Mimozemšťan
Left of the N edge, in the fall line of the rappel anchor, up the face to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Haštalská věžička
Through the chimney and from there up the face to the right, all the way into the W face,… Rock Climbing
5
Mimozemšťan
Left in the saddle up the face and gully to the balcony and left up the face to the top. Rock Climbing
4-
Rébus
UIAA cl. 4South face down to the edge and along it to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Tornádo
UIAA cl. 3 Along the SW edge and then via the loose boulder to the top. Rock Climbing
4-
Tornádo
Rock Climbing
2
Rébus
UIAA cl. 2Description missing Rock Climbing
4-
Tornádo
UIAA cl. 4 From the SE corner crack to the top. Rock Climbing
6
Krásná vyhlídka
Rock Climbing
5+
Krásná vyhlídka
Rock Climbing
6-
Krásná vyhlídka
Rock Climbing
2+
Krásná vyhlídka
From the uphill side via any chimney to the pillar and up the slanting wall. Rock Climbing
5+
Krásná vyhlídka
Rock Climbing
4
Meziskalí
Rock Climbing
4
Pejrova skála
Rock Climbing
7
Pejrova skála
Up the vertical wall, then climb over the overhang and up the overhang. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
5+
Pejrova skála
Over 2 bolts to the 'Spáry' rappel anchor. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
8+
Pejrova skála
Runs between 'Destička' and 'Služba veřejnosti'. The first two protection points are from… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
5+
Pejrova skála
Rock Climbing
5
Pejrova skála
Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Pejrova skála
Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Pejrova skála
Under the overhang, turn left over the new bolt. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
5
Pejrova skála
Via the left part of the wall (bolt) to the ring. Up under the overhang (bolt). Under the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2

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