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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

4
Čtyřvěží
From S via a narrow chimney (between the 3rd and 4th towers). Higher up the wall to the… Rock Climbing
6
Čtyřvěží
Up the rusty wall right of route No. 4 to the flake and right along the edge directly… Rock Climbing
4
Čtyřvěží
Via the oblique crack in the W wall (between the 1st and 2nd towers), higher up the wall… Rock Climbing
5+
Čtyřvěží
Directly up the wall to the ring of route No. 5 and up that to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Čtyřvěží
From E via the chimney between the 2nd and 4th towers along the crack to the balcony. Via… Rock Climbing
5+
Čtyřvěží
From the platform, traverse left into route No. 1 and up that to the summit. Rock Climbing
4
Tatinova trucovna
Directly up the right part of the E wall (from the gorge) to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Čtyřvěží
From E via the chimney between the 3rd and 4th towers and crossing to the 2nd tower,… Rock Climbing
5+
Čtyřvěží
Via route No. 4 below the flake. Traverse left on the ledge to the ring and directly up… Rock Climbing
5+
Čtyřvěží
From NE (right of the abseil) by building/aiding into the crack and via it over a small… Rock Climbing
4
Turistická
On the valley-side (NW) wall via the chimney from the passage to the pre-summit and via… Rock Climbing
3
Turistická
Up the overgrown NE wall over the ledge to the pre-summit and via route No. 1 to the… Rock Climbing
2
Turistická
From E up the wall into the chimney. Through it and the crawl to the pre-summit. Via… Rock Climbing
3
Tatinova trucovna
Left of route No. 1, up the wall around the wedged boulder to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Turistická
From S over boulders to the start. Over blocks to the pre-summit and up the wall to the… Rock Climbing
2
Turistická
Via route No. 3 to the ledge, traverse left into the crawl of route No. 4 and up that to… Rock Climbing
5
Večerní pilíř
From E (below the abseil) through the passage under a narrow internal chimney, through… Rock Climbing
6
Večerní pilíř
Via route No. 1 to Turisticka to its pre-summit. Overhang (ring), along the edge and up… Rock Climbing
5
Večerní pilíř
Via route No. 5b to the Snow Queen to the balcony. Traverse right to the saddle, descend… Rock Climbing
5
Sněhová královna
Left of route No. 1, step onto the small edge and up along the small crack. Rock Climbing
5
Sněhová královna
From the boulder of route No. 1, up the wall to the right. Rock Climbing
6
Sněhová královna
Via route No. 5 (Mošničky) to the pillar, then up the wall to the right along the edge… Rock Climbing
6-
Sněhová královna
From N, up the crack to the overgrown balcony. Directly up the wall to the ring of route… Rock Climbing
7
Sněhová královna
Up the middle of the valley face (3 rings). Rock Climbing
2
Sněhová královna
From S, up the wall over the slab into the gap between towers to the small birch tree.… Rock Climbing
6+
Sněhová královna
From the S corner, traverse the wall left to the ring and up the wall along the small… Rock Climbing
6-
Sněhová královna
From SW (below the Evening Pillar), up the chimney to the saddle and onto the pillar of… Rock Climbing
6
Inkognito
In the left part of the SW face, along the quartz nodules to the balcony and up via route… Rock Climbing
2
Inkognito
From N, along the cracks to the balcony and up the gully. Rock Climbing
5
Inkognito
Up the middle of the SW face along the quartz nodules to their end. Traverse left and up… Rock Climbing

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