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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

7-/7
Sloní věž
In the corner on the NE side (on the small square behind the Shark) via a crack, higher… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Sloní věž
From Elephant Square, up the wall to the 1st ring (aided from a belay seat) and via the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Sloní věž
To the left of the Elephant Promenade path, up the slanted crack (1st ring) into the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
5+
Sloní věž
From the gorge (SE), via the crack (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
7+/8-
Volavka
From the NW, via the fissure and crack to the 1st ring. Along the ledge, traverse right… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Vzkříšení
Between 'Vzkříšení' (Resurrection) and 'Žralok' (Shark), up the stemming chimney to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route
4
Volavka
From the NE, up the conical chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7-/7
Věž Jardy Krecbacha
Up the SW chimney to the plateau. Via the crack to the ring, aided from a belay seat to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Hilda
From Loutna, an overhang and (aided) up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Věž Jardy Krecbacha
From the NE, via the crack over the overhang and to the right up the wall (2 rings) into… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Loutna
Between 'Loutna' and 'Hilda', by stemming to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7/7+
Hilda
Up the V-shaped wall (3 rings) to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Loutna
Plateau slab from 'Nedělní' (Sunday). Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Loutna
To the left of the NW edge, via the crack (hourglass) to the ring, from the right up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Ohyzda
From the plateau side, up the chimney and to the right via the crack to the platform. Up… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Ohyzda
From the left of the valley edge, along the ledge to the right, aided and via the crack… Rock Climbing Textile belay Danger
6-
Nedělní
From the plateau fore-rock, aided to the ledge, traverse right along it, then up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Nedělní
From the fore-rock near the northern edge, descend through the chimney and step over to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Harfeník
In the left part of the plateau wall (with significant aid) up the crack into the recess,… Rock Climbing Textile belay Danger
3
Křiváček
From the uphill side, via a stem and a crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Křiváček
Via the valley crack to the balcony, left up the wall and via a short chimney to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Pěvci
From the SE, via chimneys to the saddle between the towers and left up the chimney to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Pěvci
In the middle of the NW wall, via artificial aid to a short chimney and up it to the ring… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
Přeskok
Pěvci
From the NE, from the edge with a jump to the pre-summit and via the Old Route to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Dildo
From the uphill side, via an overhang and significant artificial aid to the ring, then… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Ukulele
Up the NE wall diagonally right to the ring. Via a short chimney and the wall to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Střídavě oblačno
Via the SW crack to the niche and up the chimney to the pillar. Descend via the crack to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Střídavě oblačno
To the right of the West Route, up a short chimney to the hole and diagonally left up the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Střídavě oblačno
Up the chimney of the Old Route and higher up left via a crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Střídavě oblačno
In the corner on the uphill side, up the chimney to the platform and up the wall to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay

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