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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6
Manekýn
From the plateau side by chimney to the fore-rock. By the wall to the 1st and 2nd ring.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Vejce
By the wall and gully along the west ridge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7/7+
Manekýn
Via the route "Worn Vest" to the fore-rock (added ring). Traverse left behind the edge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Pinďoš
Along the E edge, up the pyrite wall to the ring and up the wall (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Vejce
Via the NE crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Vejce
Via the plateau (northern) edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Pinďoš
On the plateau side, left, up the wall and edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Vejce
Rock Climbing
7-/7
Satelit
Valley (SE) crack to the 1st ring. Right by gully to the 2nd ring and up the wall right… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
3
Pinďoš
Through the middle of the plateau wall, higher up from the left to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Satelit
On the plateau side from Hronov Towers, via a chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Pinďoš
Along the west edge, up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Satelit
From the plateau side (left of route Plateau Chimney) via a chimney, higher up via a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Ťuhýk
From the SW (valley side) via a crack and corner to the 1st ring. Up the wall right to a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Ťuhýk
From the plateau side, via a crack to the ledge (ring), with substantial aid and a crack… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
5+
Medusy
Start via the chimney of the Bloudivá (Wandering) route. Below the ledge, traverse right… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Medusy
In the middle of the NW wall via a notch to the end and left via chimneys to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Koberce
To the right of the 'Flat Difficulties' route via a corner crack and through into the… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +3
4
Medusy
In the middle of the NW wall via a chimney to the ledge, traverse right along it into… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Medusy
Along the ledge of the Kavčí (Jackdaw) route to the chimney and through it, later via a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Medusy
To the left of the southern corner via a chimney to the 1st ring, via a crack to the 2nd… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Medusy
Via the Valley Route into the recess and left along the wall to the 1st ring. Along the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Medusy
In the middle of the SW wall via a crack into the recess. By building, via a crack and a… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Medusy
In the right part of the NW wall (between Medusas and Midžim) via a crack and a chimney… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Medusy
In the left part of the plateau (SE) wall via a conical chimney and a crack to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Medusy
In the middle of the plateau (SE) wall via small cracks to the ring (building from a seat… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Medusy
To the left of the start of the 'Cracked Corner' route, traverse along the ledge left… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Medusy
At the eastern corner of the tower via a wall and a crack to the platform. Via a chimney… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Medusy
From the inner area (left of the 'Too Much Harms Everything' route) via a chimney and a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Medusy
Along the Innocent Route to its ring and to the right via an斜 crack to the balcony. Via a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay

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