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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6
Jódl-módl
Through the left part of the valley (NE) wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Climbolog
Along the gully to the 1st ring and over the overhang into a gully, then to the 2nd ring.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Jódl-módl
directly below the abseil point Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Jódl-módl
Up the wall from the left to the rounded edge and along it to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Bedna
Via the NW crack to the small plateau and via the corner crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Bedna
From the start of the "Useless Pounding" route via a crack to the ledge and traverse left… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Bedna
From the gorge on the east side of the tower, traverse in the ledge to the left beyond… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
2
Konzument
From the plateau side, to the left up the wall to the balcony and via a crack to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Konzument
From the plateau side, to the right traverse in the ledge to the small balcony and via… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Bedna
From the plateau (E) side via a crack over the overhang and up the wall (ring) to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Uršula
Up the plateau wall along the chimneys to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Uršula
From the gorge, up the wall to the right (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Kolda
From the valley, significant building over a crack and a shallow gully into a crack.… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Kolda
To the right of the north corner via a crack to the block. Through the crack and to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
4+
Uršula
From the massif, significant building and an overhang to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Kolda
Via the walking variant of the Fireplace route to Kozák into the saddle. Traverse in the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Kolda
From the plateau side via the corner crack to the footbridge, traverse left along it, up… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Kozák
From the SE via the chimney and crack to the saddle. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Kozák
The entry is below the left part of the Kolda plateau wall. Traverse in the ledge to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Kozák
In the valley (SW) wall via a crack to the 1st ring. Traverse in the ledge to the right… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Kolda
Via the Lost Route to the footbridge. Briefly to the watches, to the right and directly… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Kozák
Via the NW chimney and crack to the saddle. Up the wall (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Zamilovaná stěna
Via the Mordunk route to Lotranda onto the balcony. Up the wall over the overhang to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Bulisák
In the right part of the SW wall via the chimney to the ring. To the right along the edge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Teoretik
From the block on the SE side of the tower, up the wall (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2
Bulisák
Via the Náhorní chimney and wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Teoretik
Right of the eastern edge, via a crack and then left along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Teoretik
From the end of the crack to the right and via the ring of the "Misty Theory" route to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Babinský
From the inner space, traverse left using opposition and up a chimney to the saddle. Up… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Figura
From the SW, from the chimney between Figura and Jean Frank's Tower, via a crack to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay

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