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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

7-/7
Brucknerova věž
Up the valley wall (2 bolts) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Brucknerova věž
Along the left plateau edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Brucknerova věž
Right on the plateau side of the tower from the block (using aid/stacking) up the wall to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Děravá věžička
Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Děravá věžička
Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Děravá věžička
Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Velkopoříčská
Right part of the SE wall (bolt) to the bolt of the Agena route and up the wall directly… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5
Velkopoříčská
From the SE by small chimney to the balcony and up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Velkopoříčská
From the highest point of the terrain diagonally right into the NW wall and up that to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Velkopoříčská
On the plateau side (from the highest point of the terrain) up the NW edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Velkopoříčská
Up the SE edge to the balcony. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Velkopoříčská
Up the SE wall, higher to the right to the bolt. Left up the wall and via steps to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Velkopoříčská
The start is below the right part of the north wall. Traverse in the wall to the left, up… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Velkopoříčská
Up the left part of the north wall directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
5
Malý Ondra
Up the wall along the right valley (northern) edge to the ring. Aid climbing and up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Malý Ondra
Up the South face to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Malý Ondra
Up the SE wall and small pillar to the hole to the hourglass. Using aid/stacking and up… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Drážďanská
From SW from the block with strenuous aid climbing (1st ring), up the wall to a ledge,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Drážďanská
Up the NW face to the crack, through it over overhangs to the flake (aid climbing) and up… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7-/7
Drážďanská
The entry is on the fore-rock between Dresden Tower and Palcát. From the overflow/gap … Rock Climbing Textile belay Danger
6
Drážďanská
Between Dresden Tower and the fore-rock of Palcát by stemming, stepping across and left… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Drážďanská
From the NE, up a small crack to a balcony to the ring. Up the overhanging wall to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Vagabund
From the gorge on the South side, traverse onto the shelf (tree) and up the wall (ring)… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2
Vagabund
Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Vagabund
Start on the South edge. Traverse along the ledge left into the gully/chimney and through… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7-/7
Kuki
Along the right valley edge (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Kuki
Up the North face to the right to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Kuki
Along the upper edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Kocourek
Up the upper small wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Kuki
Below the abseil point, up the wall (thread/hourglass) to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay

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