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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

7-/7
Figura
In the left part of the uphill (NE) wall, follow a crack to its end; also from the right,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Figura
Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Figura
Left of the western corner, via a crack to the platform, up a chimney to the pillar and… Rock Climbing Textile belay
Přeskok
Figura
From the southern corner of the base of Rozhledna, jump into the niche, then via a crack… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Figura
Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Brejlovec
From the SE, traverse the wall left to the valley terrace, then continue left and up the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Brejlovec
From the intermediate towers by the French Needles, cross over, then follow a system of… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Brejlovec
From the SW, follow an oblique crack to an widening, over an overhang and then a… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Brejlovec
From the catwalk on the uphill side, through the crack (ring) and up the wall to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Francouzské jehly
Right of the start of the Old Route by a system of cracks to the northern pillars.… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Brejlovec
From the plateau side traverse along the ledge right, by a gully and by the wall to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Brejlovec
Up the SE overhanging wall (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8-/8
Francouzské jehly
Left in the valley wall by an overhanging crack to the ring. Left by the wall and shallow… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Francouzské jehly
From the valley side by chimney into the col between towers. By the Old Route to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Francouzské jehly
From SE by crack into the chimney of the Old Route and along it to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Francouzské jehly
Left in the valley wall by an overhanging corner crack, higher up by the right edge (ring… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7+/8-
Student
Left of the direct variant of the "Rangers" route by a crack (1st added ring), higher up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Francouzské jehly
From the plateau side by a crack into the col between towers, by a crack and chimney to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7-/7
Student
From SW by the right crack to the window. Descend by crack diagonally left, by crack … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +2
7-/7
Student
Directly by the left crack. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +2
6-
Student
Left of the start of the Old Route by crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay Danger +1
7-/7
Student
In the left part of the NE wall by a diagonal notch and wall to a block. By the wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7+/8-
Student
To the right in the valley wall of Rosinanta (about 6m left of the start of the "Wailing… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Student
From NE by chimney between Student and Rosinanta to the ring. By the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Polda
By the corner crack and NE chimney between the pillars and by the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Polda
Rock Climbing
6
Rosinanta
From the highest point of the gorge on the NE side of the tower by the wall diagonally… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Polda
By the right chimney from SE to the col between towers and to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Věž Jeana Franka
Along the ledge traverse right to a small balcony and by the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Věž Jeana Franka
From the valley side by the crack (ring) and by the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +2

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