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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6+/7-
Cirkus
From the ring, up the wall to the left onto the edge and along it to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Cirkus
From the NE, by stemming to the 1st ring, up the wall and crack to the 2nd ring. Via a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Cirkus
From the SW from the gorge, via crack and chimney onto the plateau. Aid climbing and wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6+/7-
Cirkus
In the middle of the SW wall, with significant aid climbing, via crack and higher up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6
Cirkusácká stěna
From the chimney between the Circus Wall and Mike, via the crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route
7/7+
Cirkus
To the right of the southern corner, up the wall to the left (1st ring), via a small… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Šlechtic
From the SE, via the chimney and wall to the left onto the balcony to the ring. To the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Šlechtic
From the SE, via the chimney, higher up by stemming to the upper pillars. Via an inclined… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Šlechtic
From the NE, via the chimney (1st ring) and crack onto the balcony to the 2nd ring. Aid… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Šlechtic
At the left valley (northern) edge, with significant aid climbing and up the wall to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6-
Papouščí brána
To the right of the "Happy Crack" route, through the chimney (1st ring) and crack to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Papouščí brána
In the right part of the SW wall via a crack and chimney to the south pillars. Via the … Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route
6-
Papouščí brána
To the right of the 'Penitence' route via a crack (2 rings) into the saddle. Right via a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
Přeskok
Papouščí brána
From the south pillars by jumping into the saddle and right via the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Papouščí brána
Via "Blessing" to its 1st ring. From there, traverse the wall to the right crack and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Papouščí hlava
From the balcony on the NW side via the wall to the ring. Up the wall along the gully to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8-/8
Papouščí hlava
From the valley side via opposition and left via a crack to the 1st ring. Via a crack and… Rock Climbing
3
Papouščí hlava
From the balcony on the SW side of the tower via the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7/7+
Papouščí brána
To the left of the 'Joyful Crack' route via a chimney and hand crack to the ring. Right … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Papouščí brána
From the SW via the left crack (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6-
Kostel
To the left of the 'Stormy' route via a crack and chimney left into the saddle. Up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Hurdiska
On the NE side of the tower via an oblique notch to the 1st ring. By building up from the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Hurdiska
To the left of the south edge via the wall to the ring. To the left via the wall along… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Kostel
From the summit of 'The Fugitive' descend via the wall to the western corner of 'The… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Hurdiska
From the plateau side (to the right of the south edge) by building up and via the wall to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Kostel
Via the 'Stormy' route to its 1st ring, traverse right to the 1st ring of the 'From the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Kostel
From the NE via opposition and a crack to the balcony to the second rappel ring. Via a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Kostel
From the SE via the right crack (2 rings) to the pre-summit. Via the old route to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Kostel
Via the 'Hagbard's Chimney' route to the Red Hood below its summit, via an overhang and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Kostel
From the SE via the left crack (ring) to the pre-summit. Via the old route to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay

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