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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

7/7+
Hladová zeď
In the middle of the NW wall via a shallow crack to the ring and to the left via a crack… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6-
Boubelka
From the gorge (from Boubel) via a crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route
6
Šejk
On the valley (NW) wall via a crack to the end (ring) and then via the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Boubelka
Left of the start of the Na koníčka route, by crack and dihedral to its end. Right by… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Boubelka
SW wall (or from left, traverse in the ledge) to the 1st ring. Wall along the edge (2nd… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
1
Boubel
From the Boubelka tower, by aid climbing to the plateau and to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Boubel
From the squeeze chimney on the plateau side, by crack and wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Boubelka
Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Rudá kápě
Right of the "Žlutý sokolík" route, by crack to the widening, by step-across and wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Rudá kápě
By opposition against Kostel, by overhang and wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay Danger
7+/8-
Rudá kápě
Left of the "Žlutý sokolík" route, by a delicate narrow crack (1st ring) to the end at… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Rudá kápě
From the block on the SE side of the tower, by crack and narrow crack (sokolík) to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
7+/8-
Podvodník
Northeast edge (2 rings) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Podvodník
NW wall (2 rings) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Rudá kápě
By opposition against Podvodník to the ring, by overhang and wall to the pre-summit. By… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Podvodník
SE chimney and crack diagonally right to the ring. By wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Vodní kámen
Along the northern edge, higher up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Vodní kámen
From the valley, west of the narrow corner via the chimney to the terrace, traverse to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Čučátko
The start is to the right of the upper (eastern) edge. Via the rib and up the wall to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Rovnáček
Via the chimney from the upper side to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Excentrická rolnička
From the west, by stemming/chimneying and up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
Přeskok
Excentrická rolnička
From the edge/ledge by traversing and up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Excentrická rolnička
From the upper (northern) side up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Pokušeni
By the East face to the right onto the edge and along it to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Svéhlavička
Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Zahradník
Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Svéhlavička
Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Toulavý mnich
By the plateau chimney to the platform, via a formation and to the right up a gully to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Svéhlavička
Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Bosá
Rock Climbing Textile belay

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