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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

3
Hurikán
UIAA grade 3. Description missing. Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Bubeník
UIAA grade Jump 1. From the edge, by a short jump and up the wall to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Věž Prokopa Diviše
UIAA grade 5. From the SW gorge, via the wall and crack to the bolt. Via the gully to the… Rock Climbing
5+
Bubeník
UIAA grade 5+. From the NW, via the crack to the plateau. By aid climbing to the top. Rock Climbing
6
Věž Prokopa Diviše
UIAA grade 6. By aid climbing and via the crack (bolt) to the top. Rock Climbing
2
Mikšovy skály
UIAA grade 2. Description missing. Rock Climbing
3
Mikšovy skály
UIAA grade 3. Description missing. Rock Climbing
5+
Mikšovy skály
UIAA grade 5+. From the North, via the inner chimney to the balcony. Via the crack and… Rock Climbing
5
Mikšovy skály
UIAA grade 5. From the East via the corner, crack and chimney to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Mikšovy skály
UIAA grade 5. In the West corner, via the crack over two steps and the chimney to the top. Rock Climbing
4
Mikšovy skály
UIAA grade 4. Description missing. Rock Climbing
6
Koloděj
UIAA grade 6. Right part of the NW wall to the niche, down the wall and via the crack to… Rock Climbing
3
Mikšovy skály
UIAA grade 3. Description missing. Rock Climbing
3
Mikšovy skály
UIAA grade 3. Description missing. Rock Climbing
6+
Dubonet
UIAA grade 6+. Along the North edge to the balcony, traverse down and up the Southeast… Rock Climbing
6+
Dubonet
UIAA grade 6+. Along the Southeast wall. Rock Climbing
5
Koloděj
UIAA grade 5. From the West boulder, along the wall on the right to a small balcony and… Rock Climbing
5
Koloděj
UIAA grade 5. Via the Upland crack. Rock Climbing
4
Papatači
Up the Northwest face to the right and along the face beside the West Ridge to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Stupínek
Along the Plateau (South) Ridge to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Papatači
Rock Climbing
5
Plašmuška
Along the North Ridge to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Plašmuška
In the right part of the SW face, via the crack to the ledge and up the chimney to the… Rock Climbing
3
Plašmuška
Via the corner in the NE face to the ledge, then right along it and up the face to the… Rock Climbing
3
Papatači
Rock Climbing
5
Blázinec
Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route
3
Brusinka
UIAA grade 3. Description missing Rock Climbing
2
Kančák
From the NE, from the ledge via the corner crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Brusinka
UIAA grade 6. Description missing Rock Climbing
5
Brusinka
UIAA grade 5. In the NW face via a broken/zigzag crack to the summit. Rock Climbing

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