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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

7-/7
Lupič
From the NE, with significant aid (building holds/aids) into an overhanging crack and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6-
Lupič
In the SE face, via the right wide crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route
4
Blázinec
Rock Climbing
5+
Lupič
From the NW, via the chimney to the ring (using aid from a sling seat) and up the crack,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
3
Blázinec
Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Piskoř
3m left of the 'Mysterious Traverses' route, up the overhanging small overhang/climbing… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Piskoř
Along the West Ridge over 4 rings to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Lupič
Via the crack in the SW face (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
3
Lupič
From the SE, via the chimney to a block below the SE face. Climb into the SE chimney and… Rock Climbing Textile belay
8/8+
Lupič
From the ring of the 'Stolen Crack' route, traverse left to the falcon's nest (2nd ring),… Rock Climbing
6-
Páv
To the right in the NE wall, up the crack to the ledge and along the left edge (ring) (n.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
3
Hora mechu
Up the upper (western) edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Piskoř
From the fore-rock on the NE side of the tower along the small crack to the 'finger'.… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Hora mechu
From the west, through the corner to the fore-rock. Up the wall to the balcony and along… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7/7+
Páv
From the start of the 'Maidens' Path' route (its 1st ring is on the left), up the crack… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Páv
In the left part of the NE wall to the 1st ring. Higher up through a small crack to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Páv
From the NE, up the left crack to the fore-summit, traverse right and up the wall past… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
5
Páv
From the gorge below the NE wall of the tower, up the chimney under the ceiling. Through… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Páv
From the SE to the highest ledge with a pine tree and by building (n. v.). Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Páv
From the W, up the crack in the edge to the fore-summit and up the center of the wall… Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route
3
Ládík
In the right part of the NE wall, up the chimney to the pillar and up the wall to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Ládík
Left of the 'Chimney' route, through a crack over the bridge to the pillar. Via the … Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Ládík
Via the 'Drowned Crack' route to the bridge, then left along it to the crack and through… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Ježci
Up the SW crack, through the small wood and up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Ježci
Up the SW wall to about half the height of the tower, traverse left across the wall to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Ježci
From the NE, through the passage into the chimney and up it to the pillar. Overhang and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Ježci
From the highest point of the terrain below the NE wall, through a corner to the saddle.… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Ježci
From the NE, up the right crack to the ledge (pine tree), up the chimney to the pillar… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Koloťuk
From the gorge to Kazišuk, through a crack to the pillar. By building (n. v.). Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Finský domek
In the valley (NE) wall, through a crack and a fissure to the ring. Up the wall and right… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay

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