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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

Přeskok
Gazela
From the tourist path, by chimneys to the pillar. By jump and along the edge to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Trautenberk
In the gorge on the SW side of the tower, by crack and chimney to the pillar. By crack … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Trautenberk
Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Trautenberk
By the right valley crack and chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route
7-/7
Trautenberk
By NE crack to the 1st ring. By wall along the fissure in the corner, by small pillar … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Ostrovní věžička
Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Ostrovní věžička
Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Ostrovní věžička
From the SE, via the crack to the ring and up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Spasská věž
By stemming between the fore-rock and the tower to the ring, via the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Spasská věž
The ascent starts from the block on the plateau (NW) side of the tower. By building up,… Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route
3
Sicílie
On the plateau side, up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Oscilant
In the plateau gorge, up the chimney to the pillar. Up the wall (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Saská placka
In the middle of the plateau wall from the passage, up the chimney, diagonally right via… Rock Climbing Textile belay Danger
4
Saská placka
Right of the "Eastern Crack" route, via a crack, a crack, a gully and the wall to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Saská placka
In the left part of the NE wall, by building up and via the sloping crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6
Saská placka
On the valley side from the passage, up the chimney and diagonally left via the crack to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Saská placka
Near the northern edge, up the wall to the ledge, right via the corner crack to the pre… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
4
Saská placka
of the terrain near the eastern edge, up the sloping gully to the ledge and to the ring.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Klusáček
Right of the 'Náhorní hrana' (Plateau Edge) route, through cracks and a crack to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Klusáček
From the valley side, via the crack or from the right via the wall to the flake (ring).… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Klusáček
From the NE, up the chimney to the pillar (supplied ring) and along the edge to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Saská placka
Up the chimney of the "Rainy Picnic" route and right via the crack (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Pusinka
Up the plateau wall to the pre-summit and right along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7+/8-
Chobot
From the passage by the Caretaker in the left part of the wall, by stemming (or… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Klusáček
From the highest point of the terrain, up the wall along the eastern edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Chobot
From the 1st ring of the "Experience Generator" route, left into the crack, through which… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Pusinka
Right of the Kocovina route, up the crack to the pre-summit. Via the Kocovina route to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Chobot
Up the valley crack to the ring. Build up from the seat and left along the edge to the… Rock Climbing
4+
Chobot
From the highest point of the terrain along the eastern edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
7/7+
Morgan
From the plateau side, via the chimney to the pillar. Up the wall, higher along the edge … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay

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